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18m.

Rockfax Description
A fine route with a chequered history. Climb the lower wall until things blank out - once the site of a bolted on flake-hold. Crank past this and keep going with a hard finish through the final roof. Lower off the penultimate bolt. © Rockfax

FA. Mark Pretty, Robin Barker 1991. Nigel Slater climbed the route as The Tea Monster in 1990. His dubious bolted-on flake had a short life..

Ticklists

Classic Hard Peak Limestone, Peak limestone north graded list - sport, UK 8a and up, Definitive *** Peak Lime, Lime Time

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User Date Notes
craig d 21 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Whatever grade this route is, I think 8A, it is the best of its grade in the Peak
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Whatever grade this route is, I think 8A, it is the best of its grade in the Peak
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Matt Broadhurst 29 May Lead RP Fantastical! Tricky slab, body tension crux, and a wild last move to the jug. 3 tie ins to get it done.
Fantastical! Tricky slab, body tension crux, and a wild last move to the jug. 3 tie ins to get it done.
dom_joyce265 24 May Lead RP Really nice route. Lots of different ways to skin a cat. Popping through the crux seemed best for me. Beware the seepy pocket.
Really nice route. Lots of different ways to skin a cat. Popping through the crux seemed best for me. Beware the seepy pocket.
emma1987 24 May Lead dog First session
with John L
First session
with John L
phillipwright 24 May Lead RP Third session projecting the route. Really happy to get this, my second 8a. went down allot quicker than the last one. Big moves, big holds for an 8a, lots of different ways to do the crux, great fun.
Third session projecting the route. Really happy to get this, my second 8a. went down allot quicker than the last one. Big moves, big holds for an 8a, lots of different ways to do the crux, great fun.
phillipwright 20 May Lead dog Really close on the first effort today, came off just before the last move. Next time hopefully!
Really close on the first effort today, came off just before the last move. Next time hopefully!
Tom Corras 17 May Lead RP
phillipwright 15 May Lead dog
maxrose 19 Sep, 2019 Lead RP Not been on it in a couple of months but felt well within my limit today, despite wet holds, very satisfying
with Sam Bentwood, Callum Robinson
Not been on it in a couple of months but felt well within my limit today, despite wet holds, very satisfying
with Sam Bentwood, Callum Robinson
Hidden 25 Jul, 2019 Lead dog
phillipwright 21 Jul, 2019 Lead dnf Had a play to feel the moves after brachiation dance. Got all the moves apart, but didnt have time to play on the very last move so lowered off. Nice route!
Had a play to feel the moves after brachiation dance. Got all the moves apart, but didnt have time to play on the very last move so lowered off. Nice route!
harry_lewis 16 Jul, 2019 Lead RP Great route, nice change from the usual peak lime rattiness. 2nd session, 4th RP
with Jan
Great route, nice change from the usual peak lime rattiness. 2nd session, 4th RP
with Jan
Jandwilson 16 Jul, 2019 Lead RP First 8a! Tried once before, had managed all the moves but thought linking it would be ridiculously hard. This session nearly did it first rp but fell tickling the finishing jug, went 2nd go-very happy boi
First 8a! Tried once before, had managed all the moves but thought linking it would be ridiculously hard. This session nearly did it first rp but fell tickling the finishing jug, went 2nd go-very happy boi
maxrose 6 Jul, 2019 Lead dog So close! Stuck the crux and the two moves after on my first red point. Nothing much after that in the way of good attempts.
So close! Stuck the crux and the two moves after on my first red point. Nothing much after that in the way of good attempts.
maxrose 5 Jul, 2019 Lead dog Another session. Good link from below the crux to the top of the route- so it can definitely go now!
Another session. Good link from below the crux to the top of the route- so it can definitely go now!
Hidden 1 Jun, 2019 Lead dog
maxrose 30 May, 2019 Lead dog 2nd session (three goes after putting draws in?) Was piss wet today but good links. Ground to crux, crux to top. Need good connies then it might go, who knows.
with arast, Callum Robinson, Nafclimbsrocks
2nd session (three goes after putting draws in?) Was piss wet today but good links. Ground to crux, crux to top. Need good connies then it might go, who knows.
with arast, Callum Robinson, Nafclimbsrocks
maxrose 25 May, 2019 Lead dog First session on it. One go working moves, one redpoint. All the moves are dialled and on the RP got half way through the crux from the ground (the clip off the good side pull flake is strenuous), probably could have done from the crux to top in one if id tried a bit harder but had a second rest... Top is easy when you use all of the holds...
First session on it. One go working moves, one redpoint. All the moves are dialled and on the RP got half way through the crux from the ground (the clip off the good side pull flake is strenuous), probably could have done from the crux to top in one if id tried a bit harder but had a second rest... Top is easy when you use all of the holds...
Hidden 22 Apr, 2019 Lead dnf
Richard Kendrick 16 Sep, 2018 Lead dog
Michael Bortoluzzi 16 Sep, 2018 2nd dnf Did all moves bar the one to the big flake. Left hand pinged off so hopefully might go in dryer weather.
Did all moves bar the one to the big flake. Left hand pinged off so hopefully might go in dryer weather.
oliver.ghill91 4 Sep, 2018 Lead
with Juliette
with Juliette
Jwatson 1 Sep, 2018 Lead dog
with Chris, AlexMorris
with Chris, AlexMorris
shaunhumphreys 1 Aug, 2018 Lead dog Tried the day previous as well, the moves with the heel in the middle feel super strenuous and dropable, the rest isnt so bad but id imagine on the redders the top will be pumpy as!
with Teappleby, Remus , benkelsey
Tried the day previous as well, the moves with the heel in the middle feel super strenuous and dropable, the rest isnt so bad but id imagine on the redders the top will be pumpy as!
with Teappleby, Remus , benkelsey
Hidden 1 Aug, 2018 Lead dog
Hidden 31 Jul, 2018 Lead dog
benkelsey 31 Jul, 2018 Lead dog Two consecutive days on this, feeling like a mixed bag. Crux is really droppable, top half is easier but could be hard on the redders. Come back with some better connies / bigger guns.
Two consecutive days on this, feeling like a mixed bag. Crux is really droppable, top half is easier but could be hard on the redders. Come back with some better connies / bigger guns.
MathewWright1998 29 Jul, 2018 Lead RP Climbed today first go, had gas in the tank at the top but the very top above the roof was wet so I pulled through and touched the head wall and calling it an ascent from there. Still felt 8a to there
Climbed today first go, had gas in the tank at the top but the very top above the roof was wet so I pulled through and touched the head wall and calling it an ascent from there. Still felt 8a to there
James 'pyjamas' 22 Jul, 2018 Lead RP 4 session on it and got it clean!, first 8a :)!
4 session on it and got it clean!, first 8a :)!
John_Beesley u 22 Jul, 2018 Lead RP Back to back sends after 3 sessions! What a stunning route! Found new beta for the top that made it so much easier! Get it while it's dry people!!
Back to back sends after 3 sessions! What a stunning route! Found new beta for the top that made it so much easier! Get it while it's dry people!!
John_Beesley u 16 Jul, 2018 Lead dog Fumbled last move! Gutted
Fumbled last move! Gutted
Henry.Todman 12 Jul, 2018 Lead RP Early morning session hyped up on many cups of coffee. First of the grade :)
Early morning session hyped up on many cups of coffee. First of the grade :)
John_Beesley u 17 Jun, 2018 Lead dog So excited to have finally opened the account on this. Will be back.
So excited to have finally opened the account on this. Will be back.
BRoe 17 Jun, 2018 Lead RP Felt really, really good.
Felt really, really good.
James 'pyjamas' 17 Jun, 2018 Lead dog First attempt a route, enjoyed it an got all the moves.
First attempt a route, enjoyed it an got all the moves.
AndrewJamesCherry 25 May, 2018 Lead RP Some of the best fun I've had sport climbing on peak limestone. Probably because the holds are big! 3 visits, 5 redpoints.
Some of the best fun I've had sport climbing on peak limestone. Probably because the holds are big! 3 visits, 5 redpoints.
will6459 2 Sep, 2017 Lead RP First 8a
First 8a
Cassidy 22 Jul, 2017 Lead RP
with Nicholas Ecoffet
with Nicholas Ecoffet
Ssebo ? Jul, 2017 -
James Oakes 4 Jun, 2017 Lead RP
with Tom Adams
with Tom Adams
Harry Chaplin 3 Jun, 2017 Lead dnf Had a brief go in the past. Climbed from the ground to the right hand pocket in a oner 1st go but the pocket was wet. Got the rest of the moves sorted but couldn't get the pocket dry enough to have a decent rp attempt. ANother time...
Had a brief go in the past. Climbed from the ground to the right hand pocket in a oner 1st go but the pocket was wet. Got the rest of the moves sorted but couldn't get the pocket dry enough to have a decent rp attempt. ANother time...
Joe Lawson 11 May, 2017 Lead RP
Hidden 8 May, 2017 Lead dog
Hidden 8 May, 2017 Lead rpt
Steve Hickie 8 May, 2017 Lead RP the monster is free 😎
the monster is free 😎
Si dH 27 Aug, 2016 Lead RP First 8a :) Took 4 sessions.
with Marc W
First 8a :) Took 4 sessions.
with Marc W
Ed Booth 23 Aug, 2016 Lead RP Dogged it then got really close to doing it 2nd go. Fell and fine tuned the move (to the big side pull halfway) and then did it next RP. Good bouldery route.
Dogged it then got really close to doing it 2nd go. Fell and fine tuned the move (to the big side pull halfway) and then did it next RP. Good bouldery route.
Adam Booth 23 Aug, 2016 Lead dog Moves ok, not sure I'm fit enough to link at present!
Moves ok, not sure I'm fit enough to link at present!
Hidden 8 Aug, 2016 Lead dog
Hidden 3 Oct, 2015 Lead dog
Matt Cooke 5 Sep, 2015 Lead RP
Luke Dawson 4 Sep, 2015 Lead RP
with Mike Adams
with Mike Adams
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing u 26 Aug, 2015 Lead RP So glad to get this done. Being so steep it was my complete anti style, as such it felt hard for the grade and took more sessions than any other route I've tried to date.
with Dan McManus
So glad to get this done. Being so steep it was my complete anti style, as such it felt hard for the grade and took more sessions than any other route I've tried to date.
with Dan McManus
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing u 11 Aug, 2015 Lead dog Poor conditions, but the moves are coming together
Poor conditions, but the moves are coming together
Dave Mayes 7 Aug, 2015 Lead RP Yippee. Ben Moon tactics, had a half hour snooze in the dust before tying in.
Yippee. Ben Moon tactics, had a half hour snooze in the dust before tying in.
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing u 4 Aug, 2015 Lead dog Pumpy number, hopefully feel easier next time when I know where the holds are
Pumpy number, hopefully feel easier next time when I know where the holds are
Charlie Noakes 19 Jul, 2015 Lead RP One to remember! 3rd redpoint go today, 5-6 sessions in total.
One to remember! 3rd redpoint go today, 5-6 sessions in total.
Dave Bond 24 Jun, 2015 Lead RP
with mic_b
with mic_b
Hidden 23 Jun, 2015 Lead dog
Dale Comley 15 May, 2015 Lead RP Great route, most of the pockets wet at the moment.
Great route, most of the pockets wet at the moment.
Tophe 2 Oct, 2014 Lead RP
BillyRidal 14 Sep, 2014 Lead RP
steepstuff ? Sep, 2014 Lead RP
with Strong Rich
with Strong Rich
AlistairB 19 Aug, 2014 Lead RP Great fun, 3 really enjoyable sessions. Nice to both do it one after the other as well.
with mwatson
Great fun, 3 really enjoyable sessions. Nice to both do it one after the other as well.
with mwatson
blaza1 ? Aug, 2014 Lead RP
Hidden 7 Jul, 2014 Lead RP
NDD 6 Jul, 2014 Lead Great route, felt pumpy at the end.
Great route, felt pumpy at the end.
jfreeman 6 Jul, 2014 Lead RP
with Nic Duboust
with Nic Duboust
feeko 10 Sep, 2013 Lead RP
oliver.ghill91 10 Sep, 2013 Lead dog
with theo
with theo
highrepute 21 Jul, 2013 Lead RP
Ethan 11 May, 2013 Lead
with Don Walker
with Don Walker
mic_b u 8 May, 2013 Lead RP
Hidden 8 May, 2013 Lead RP
nathanlee 8 May, 2013 Lead RP felt tired tonight, beta change on the last go made the route much easier. cheers mike/ian!
with al123
felt tired tonight, beta change on the last go made the route much easier. cheers mike/ian!
with al123
Hidden 2 Oct, 2011 Lead RP
Hidden 3 Sep, 2011 Lead RP
will smith11 31 Jul, 2011 Lead RP First 8a!!
with dafrob
First 8a!!
with dafrob
Hidden 21 Jul, 2011 Lead RP
keefe 21 Jul, 2011 Lead RP Found it hard - maybe just conditions dependent, but it took 3 visits.
with antham
Found it hard - maybe just conditions dependent, but it took 3 visits.
with antham
Ally Smith 7 May, 2011 Lead RP 2nd go, woop!
2nd go, woop!
Fraser13 ? Apr, 2011 Lead RP
alaan 13 Sep, 2010 Lead dog Too steep for me! Arms repeatedly failed on top wall but hopefully do better with a bit more in the tank later.
with Will
Too steep for me! Arms repeatedly failed on top wall but hopefully do better with a bit more in the tank later.
with Will
JM 19 Aug, 2010 Lead RP
with Holger Moeller, Dave Pinnington
with Holger Moeller, Dave Pinnington
Stewart B 3 Aug, 2010 Lead RP 3rd go, 1st redpoint. Pretty soft.
with Nick Deboost, Dave Redpath
3rd go, 1st redpoint. Pretty soft.
with Nick Deboost, Dave Redpath
jondude 2 Aug, 2010 Lead RP
with Pete Clark
with Pete Clark
ChrisDavis 1 Aug, 2010 Lead RP
with dafrob
with dafrob
Hidden 1 Aug, 2010 Lead RP
Simon Davis 8 Jul, 2010 Lead RP Tricky last move
with Dave Mclaughlin
Tricky last move
with Dave Mclaughlin
Hidden 3 Jul, 2010 Lead RP
Hidden 27 Jun, 2010 Lead RP
Gus 25 Jun, 2010 Lead RP 3rd go
3rd go
Tom Randall - Lattice Training 25 Jun, 2010 Lead
midgets of the world unite 12 Jun, 2010 Lead RP
hutch 4 Jun, 2010 Lead RP
bubblewrap ? Jun, 2010 Lead RP
with Ben h
with Ben h
hamer89 31 May, 2009 Lead RP
Tom Briggs u 12 Jul, 2008 Lead RP
with Ben Pritchard
with Ben Pritchard
Hidden 4 Jul, 2008 Lead RP
Hidden 27 Jun, 2008 Lead RP
Hidden 23 Jun, 2008 Lead RP
Hidden 14 Jun, 2008 Lead RP
lx 24 May, 2008 Lead done in an hour, 1st redpoint. Really good
with rob
done in an hour, 1st redpoint. Really good
with rob
UKB Shark 12 Sep, 2007 Lead RP
Jake Shaw ? Sep, 2007 Lead RP
with Martin
with Martin
Boy ??, 2006 -
Hidden ??, 2006 Lead dog
craig d ??, 2000 Lead RP
kristian ??, 2000 Lead RP
Seb Grieve ??, 1993 Lead RP
53 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
Votes cast 52
Votes cast 40
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest

Unleashing the Wild Physique

Grade: 8a ***
(Chee Dale Lower)