UKC

18m.

Rockfax Description
An awesome line on decent holds for the most part except the start (Dance Direction) which some find the technical crux. Make fingery moves to the break - originally came from the left. Pull away past a hands-off knee-bar rest to the final roof, then crank this, past the lower-off, to jugs over the lip. Make a small jump or difficult reverse move to the lower-off. © Rockfax

FFA. Tim Freeman 1984. Led with one rest by Dominic Lee in 1980 FA. (as Nemesis) Graham West, Barry Roberts 1959 FA. (Dance Direction) Steve Earnshaw, Mark Shearer 1990.

Ticklists

Classy Peak Lime 7a to 7b+, Peak Sport 3 Star Routes 6c+-7c+, Peak District Limestone top 50 sport up to 8a+, Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50, World Graded List, Peak Rock/15/The Dawn of Sport:A Bolt From the Blue, 28 Decent Sport Routes, Peak limestone north graded list - sport, Definitive *** Peak Lime, On Peak Rock, Lime Time, Soft Touches, Steep UK Sport Routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
Misha 14 Aug Show βeta
βeta: The finishing jug is pretty much directly above the last bolt but you have to move right to get into position to latch it. Also possible to finish up Free Monster just to the right, which shares one or two holds.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The finishing jug is pretty much directly above the last bolt but you have to move right to get into position to latch it. Also possible to finish up Free Monster just to the right, which shares one or two holds.
LeeTweedale1986 26 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Best route I've done!!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Best route I've done!!!
JayK 21 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Didn't realise that there was a jug at the top on the onsight. So fell off going up to nowhere.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Didn't realise that there was a jug at the top on the onsight. So fell off going up to nowhere.
SED 17 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Needs the bolts sorting out, given it’s popularity. As hard as the 7a+s to the left, even when done without the superfluous kneebar.
Show beta
βeta: Needs the bolts sorting out, given it’s popularity. As hard as the 7a+s to the left, even when done without the superfluous kneebar.
Boy 15 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Probably only 7b if the hands off kneebar rest at mid height is used!
Show beta
βeta: Probably only 7b if the hands off kneebar rest at mid height is used!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 79
Votes cast 72
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Onsighted
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Bored of the Lies

Grade: 7b+ ***
(Chee Dale Lower)
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