UKC

18m.

Rockfax Description
An awesome line on decent holds for the most part except the start (Dance Direction) which some find the technical crux. Make fingery moves to the break - originally came from the left. Pull away past a hands-off knee-bar rest to the final roof, then crank this, past the lower-off, to jugs over the lip. Make a small jump or difficult reverse move to the lower-off. © Rockfax

FFA. Tim Freeman 1984. Led with one rest by Dominic Lee in 1980 FA. (as Nemesis) Graham West, Barry Roberts 1959 FA. (Dance Direction) Steve Earnshaw, Mark Shearer 1990.

Ticklists

Classy Peak Lime 7a to 7b+ , Peak Sport 3 Star Routes 6c+-7c+ , Peak District Limestone top 50 sport up to 8a+ , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , World Graded List , Peak Rock/15/The Dawn of Sport:A Bolt From the Blue , 28 Decent Sport Routes , Peak limestone north graded list - sport , Definitive *** Peak Lime , On Peak Rock , Lime Time , Soft Touches , Steep UK Sport Routes , The Festival Of Shite , Hard Sport Ticks , Lime trad for hobbyists , The "I live in West Yorkshire and have a rockfax digital subscription" 7's sport bible

Feedback

User Date Notes
charvey 3 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The flake jug left off the fourth bolt is wobbling alarmingly
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The flake jug left off the fourth bolt is wobbling alarmingly
Misha 14 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The finishing jug is pretty much directly above the last bolt but you have to move right to get into position to latch it. Also possible to finish up Free Monster just to the right, which shares one or two holds.
Show beta
βeta: The finishing jug is pretty much directly above the last bolt but you have to move right to get into position to latch it. Also possible to finish up Free Monster just to the right, which shares one or two holds.
lee_tweedale86 26 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Best route I've done!!!
Show beta
βeta: Best route I've done!!!
JayK 21 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Didn't realise that there was a jug at the top on the onsight. So fell off going up to nowhere.
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βeta: Didn't realise that there was a jug at the top on the onsight. So fell off going up to nowhere.
SED 17 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Needs the bolts sorting out, given it’s popularity. As hard as the 7a+s to the left, even when done without the superfluous kneebar.
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βeta: Needs the bolts sorting out, given it’s popularity. As hard as the 7a+s to the left, even when done without the superfluous kneebar.
Boy 15 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Probably only 7b if the hands off kneebar rest at mid height is used!
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βeta: Probably only 7b if the hands off kneebar rest at mid height is used!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Water-cum-Jolly

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Voting
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 88
Votes cast 80
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Repeated
Onsighted
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Underground Resistance

Grade: 7b+ ***
(Dale Quarry (Wirksworth))

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