From Almageller hut, folllow path to Zwischbergenpass. Turn left and follow the ridge, or drop down on the right after the first top to follow a scree slope or neve patch to below the steeper part of the ridge. The ridge gives fun blocky scrambling on sound rock and leads to a snow dome at just under 4000m. From here a short snow arete leads to the summit of the mountain. 1,200m from Almageller hut.
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| John Cuthbert | 29 Aug |
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βeta: What a fab day. A pretty manageable and steady alpine experience with low end technical difficulty, and the reward of a substantial summit. The descent of the north face capped off the day, and given the scale of that face, the depth of the many slots and narrowness of the snow bridges, renders that perhaps even more memorable. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: What a fab day. A pretty manageable and steady alpine experience with low end technical difficulty, and the reward of a substantial summit. The descent of the north face capped off the day, and given the scale of that face, the depth of the many slots and narrowness of the snow bridges, renders that perhaps even more memorable. |
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| Enty | 18 Aug |
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βeta: Up and down from Allmagellerhutte. Left at 4:30, summit for 8:30. Back at the van parked at Furggstalden for 14h. Stuck to ridge after the first col which had an exposed bad step downclimb which felt harder than anything else on the ridge. Summit ridge was wide and easy not like the narrow arete you see in all the photos. Took the left hand option for the descent to the col. Perfect weather, amazing sunrise. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Up and down from Allmagellerhutte. Left at 4:30, summit for 8:30. Back at the van parked at Furggstalden for 14h. Stuck to ridge after the first col which had an exposed bad step downclimb which felt harder than anything else on the ridge. Summit ridge was wide and easy not like the narrow arete you see in all the photos. Took the left hand option for the descent to the col. Perfect weather, amazing sunrise. |
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| Henry Burbridge | 31 Aug, 2024 |
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βeta: 3h 40m up, 1h 50m down the normal route | βeta? | |
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βeta: 3h 40m up, 1h 50m down the normal route |
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| Rob_Morris | 1 Nov, 2022 |
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βeta: Good bivvy spots 20mins above Almagellerhutte next to massive boulder. Palatial walled bivvy spot at the joch before the ridge. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Good bivvy spots 20mins above Almagellerhutte next to massive boulder. Palatial walled bivvy spot at the joch before the ridge. |
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| Zoomer | 25 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: Put your crampons on at the first patch, keep them on for the last rock tower and then the final snow arête. Final snow crest is bullet hard ice…no slip zone! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Put your crampons on at the first patch, keep them on for the last rock tower and then the final snow arête. Final snow crest is bullet hard ice…no slip zone! |
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| Rob Exile Ward | 9 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: There's another hidden snow ridge needing axe and crampons after the final rocky tower, so keep your crampons on and don't stash them! | βeta? | |
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βeta: There's another hidden snow ridge needing axe and crampons after the final rocky tower, so keep your crampons on and don't stash them! |
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| HarryBD | 5 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: Got tempted off the ridge onto the snowfield on the left. Spent a lot of time descending choss. Hindsight says \'stay on the ridge\'. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Got tempted off the ridge onto the snowfield on the left. Spent a lot of time descending choss. Hindsight says 'stay on the ridge'. |
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Route of Interest
Voie Normal via Col de la Gouille
Grade: PD 2 ***
(Mont Vélan)