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12m.

Rockfax Description
A fine climb up the long arete. A tape can be placed over a flake early on for protection, and above this the route gives sustained and interesting climbing. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Crew early 1960s.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars, Definitive *** Peak Grit

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User Date Notes
spidey 9 Feb Show βeta
βeta: Brill route.
βeta?
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βeta: Brill route.
Wil Treasure 9 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Definitely don't need zero friends for this, or even friends below size 1. It certainly felt pretty safe, and not too hard for an E1. Also second the comment about the top block, make sure you use something alse as well!
βeta?
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βeta: Definitely don't need zero friends for this, or even friends below size 1. It certainly felt pretty safe, and not too hard for an E1. Also second the comment about the top block, make sure you use something alse as well!
Tony Ryland 22 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: We top-roped this yesterday and I was so glad I wimped out rather than falling off higher up. I put in what I thought was a bomber chockstone belay. While lowering off a sudden jerk on the rope released the belay, I presume the rocking block rocked and released the belay. Fortunately I was only a few feet from the deck and only received a sore bum. Very unnerving and many thoughts of what might have been! Moral: be careful with your belays at the top and remember that 2 points of protection are better than one.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: We top-roped this yesterday and I was so glad I wimped out rather than falling off higher up. I put in what I thought was a bomber chockstone belay. While lowering off a sudden jerk on the rope released the belay, I presume the rocking block rocked and released the belay. Fortunately I was only a few feet from the deck and only received a sore bum. Very unnerving and many thoughts of what might have been! Moral: be careful with your belays at the top and remember that 2 points of protection are better than one.
Iggy_B 18 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: 2 or 3 5b moves, quite reachy. Probably your average E1 5b really. Very nice route!
βeta?
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βeta: 2 or 3 5b moves, quite reachy. Probably your average E1 5b really. Very nice route!
Ropeboy 19 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: That's one of the stupidest comments added! Pre zero friends! Seeing as they've only been available for about a year then yes the grade is about right. E2 is still not that bad a grade, it's a bit reachy and run out at the top without 'modern' gear.
βeta?
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βeta: That's one of the stupidest comments added! Pre zero friends! Seeing as they've only been available for about a year then yes the grade is about right. E2 is still not that bad a grade, it's a bit reachy and run out at the top without 'modern' gear.
Chris the Tall 26 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Can't see why this was ever given E2 - soft touch E1 IMO, but maybe a long reach helps. Great route though, plenty of gear, sustained
βeta?
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βeta: Can't see why this was ever given E2 - soft touch E1 IMO, but maybe a long reach helps. Great route though, plenty of gear, sustained
Toby Dunn 20 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Watch out for the rocking block on top of the route - probably not going anywhere, but pretty unnerving!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Watch out for the rocking block on top of the route - probably not going anywhere, but pretty unnerving!

Logged Ascents

519 users have logged this
39 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 106
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 100
Votes cast 95
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Millwheel Wall

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Burbage South Quarries)