Rockfax Description
A fine climb up the long arete. A tape can be placed over a flake early on for protection, and above this the route gives sustained and interesting climbing with just about enough gear. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Crew early 1960s.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Ultimate E1 ticklist , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Eastern Grit E1s , *** E1 on Peak Gritstone , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 E1
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| spidey | 9 Feb, 2020 |
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βeta: Brill route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Brill route. |
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| Wil Treasure | 9 Oct, 2006 |
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βeta: Definitely don't need zero friends for this, or even friends below size 1. It certainly felt pretty safe, and not too hard for an E1. Also second the comment about the top block, make sure you use something alse as well! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Definitely don't need zero friends for this, or even friends below size 1. It certainly felt pretty safe, and not too hard for an E1. Also second the comment about the top block, make sure you use something alse as well! |
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| Tony Ryland | 22 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: We top-roped this yesterday and I was so glad I wimped out rather than falling off higher up. I put in what I thought was a bomber chockstone belay. While lowering off a sudden jerk on the rope released the belay, I presume the rocking block rocked and released the belay. Fortunately I was only a few feet from the deck and only received a sore bum. Very unnerving and many thoughts of what might have been! Moral: be careful with your belays at the top and remember that 2 points of protection are better than one. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: We top-roped this yesterday and I was so glad I wimped out rather than falling off higher up. I put in what I thought was a bomber chockstone belay. While lowering off a sudden jerk on the rope released the belay, I presume the rocking block rocked and released the belay. Fortunately I was only a few feet from the deck and only received a sore bum. Very unnerving and many thoughts of what might have been! Moral: be careful with your belays at the top and remember that 2 points of protection are better than one. |
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| Ropeboy | 19 Apr, 2004 |
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βeta: That's one of the stupidest comments added! Pre zero friends! Seeing as they've only been available for about a year then yes the grade is about right. E2 is still not that bad a grade, it's a bit reachy and run out at the top without 'modern' gear. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: That's one of the stupidest comments added! Pre zero friends! Seeing as they've only been available for about a year then yes the grade is about right. E2 is still not that bad a grade, it's a bit reachy and run out at the top without 'modern' gear. |
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| Chris the Tall | 26 Jun, 2003 |
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βeta: Can't see why this was ever given E2 - soft touch E1 IMO, but maybe a long reach helps. Great route though, plenty of gear, sustained | βeta? | |
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βeta: Can't see why this was ever given E2 - soft touch E1 IMO, but maybe a long reach helps. Great route though, plenty of gear, sustained |
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| Toby Dunn | 20 Sep, 2002 |
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βeta: Watch out for the rocking block on top of the route - probably not going anywhere, but pretty unnerving! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Watch out for the rocking block on top of the route - probably not going anywhere, but pretty unnerving! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Wharncliffe Crags
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Long Tall Sally
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Burbage North)