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14m.

Rockfax Description
Start up the arete to the flake then traverse right just above the pruned sapling to the right edge of the face. Climb to a small cave then finish direct on broken flakes. Sadly escapable. © Rockfax

FA. Fred Jones 1933.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Northern Grit 100 VD - VS

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User Date Notes
lithos 7 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: tough for VS even following the correct line as the gear at the top isnt too great, some good holds though - but unfortunately you have to leave them behind to finish !
βeta?
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βeta: tough for VS even following the correct line as the gear at the top isnt too great, some good holds though - but unfortunately you have to leave them behind to finish !
sheffieldchris 30 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: tried this at the end of a day when i was climbing easily at vs and had to back off it. a few months later came back when i was climbing hvs and still did'nt fancy it so much so that i lead the E1 to the left.
βeta?
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βeta: tried this at the end of a day when i was climbing easily at vs and had to back off it. a few months later came back when i was climbing hvs and still did'nt fancy it so much so that i lead the E1 to the left.
steveshaking 21 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Got to add to the concern about the grade for the indicated route. I wimped out of the lead due to the poor gear for the tech grade and ground fall potential. Passed the arete flake it is of sustained difficulty.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Got to add to the concern about the grade for the indicated route. I wimped out of the lead due to the poor gear for the tech grade and ground fall potential. Passed the arete flake it is of sustained difficulty.
jgoodwin2020 27 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: you dont get VS's with ground fall potential like this route. i placed a number 3 (?) nut in the flake on the left and traversed above the sappling. Overall i didnt find the little gear which was available too bad however some of the moves are sketchy. overall, a great route which sure as hell gets the adrenaline going!
βeta?
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βeta: you dont get VS's with ground fall potential like this route. i placed a number 3 (?) nut in the flake on the left and traversed above the sappling. Overall i didnt find the little gear which was available too bad however some of the moves are sketchy. overall, a great route which sure as hell gets the adrenaline going!
LakesWinter 13 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: High in the VS grade, I traversed under the sapling and had no gear except 2 side runners in the diff flake, even with these the start and finish are quite run out. The most commonly climbed finish seems to go straight up to the cave, then slightly right of the line on the topo using a good flake hold
βeta?
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βeta: High in the VS grade, I traversed under the sapling and had no gear except 2 side runners in the diff flake, even with these the start and finish are quite run out. The most commonly climbed finish seems to go straight up to the cave, then slightly right of the line on the topo using a good flake hold
Jon Greengrass 26 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: a lacklustre line,it starts on the arete like the other route you need to place a tape on the flake of the left arete before traversing all the back right up the blunt rib on the far right right of the buttres thats practically in the diff gully, then a couple of good moves on questionable gear lead to an exciting finish. Has the direct up the slab been done as the line in the guidebook indicates it sure as hell doesn;'t look like 4c!
βeta?
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βeta: a lacklustre line,it starts on the arete like the other route you need to place a tape on the flake of the left arete before traversing all the back right up the blunt rib on the far right right of the buttres thats practically in the diff gully, then a couple of good moves on questionable gear lead to an exciting finish. Has the direct up the slab been done as the line in the guidebook indicates it sure as hell doesn;'t look like 4c!
Nick Smith - Climbers 15 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The line in the topo does seem to differ quite a bit from that in the old BMC 1989 guide. The line in the ROCKFAX does feel more like HVS 4c/5a and encroaches on the line of the direct Arete.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The line in the topo does seem to differ quite a bit from that in the old BMC 1989 guide. The line in the ROCKFAX does feel more like HVS 4c/5a and encroaches on the line of the direct Arete.

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340 users have logged this
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Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 63
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 60
Votes cast 58
Style of Ascent
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Route of Interest

Byne's Crack

Grade: VS 4b ***
(Burbage South Edge)