Restricted Access
The crag is owned by Yorkshire Water, looked after by the ranger team at Calderdale Borough Council and is designated a SSSI. Please keep dogs on leads and beware of car break-ins. Please also note the seasonal voluntary restrictions relating to ground nesting birds.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction applies to night time access (for lamping / lantern sessions) during nesting season. Ground nesting birds are numerous in this area and easily disturbed at night, so please avoid visits after dark during the spring and early summer.The boulders to the left of Desert offer a few polished generally low grade problems. The best is the semi off-width right slanting crack below a prominent book-end prow. The crack climbs well to the bilberry ledge (f4). Finish here or better (f5) extend it by jamming the horizontal break right beneath the prow to an awkward exit onto a big ledge. Finish by making a couple of nice moves up the scoop at the left edge of the ledge or by climbing the right side of the same perched block using the large pocket and the right arete (f5+). The crack needs a dry period and shows signs of polish. Would have been the sort of thing popular in the 1930s.
* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.
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Route of Interest
Pebble Groove
Grade: f5 ***
(Ilkley (Cow and Calf))