UKC

Restricted Access

15th September 2023 Update:

Access via abseil, as per the previous agreement is now restored following on from discussions with Manor Adventure the installation of new signage. 

Wildcat Main Crag cannot be accessed via the old approach, which was through a gap in the boundary wall below crag level. All climbers must now approach by walking to the top of the crag (path to the left of the wall and fence) and abseiling to the crag base. Climbers must not stray beyond the end of the crag or down to the river. This agreement with the landowner should be adhered to at all times and is a condition of access for climbers. 

The crag falls within a parcel of land now being used for outdoor education of children and young adults. For insurance and safeguarding reasons the landowners have created a secure boundary around the site and wish to control and minimise unsupervised access between the public and their residential charges. By limiting access only to climbers who will stay in close proximity to the crag there is sufficient buffer zone between the crag and other areas of the site.

A new fence has been installed along the line of the old wall to prevent the public walking onto the site. This blocks off the previous approach path, but please do not attempt to climb over the fence, or access via the river level gate (even if found open). Please instead access the crag from above by abseil. It is imperative that climbers follow this new approach and self-police. The fence line is visible to instructors using the river below and is monitored with security cameras. Any attempt to access via the fence will be noted by site staff and will result in access being withdrawn. If you see other people trying to climb over the fence, please inform them this is not acceptable – it is up to all climbers to help keep access open.

Currently four in-situ abseil stations are in place at the top of Jackdaw Grooves, Lynx, Tut’s Anomalous and Climacteric. Once you abseil in, please stay in close proximity to the base of the crag where you will be well away from site users.

Due to their close proximity to areas being used by children, access is no longer granted to the four smaller crags south of Wildcat Main Crag (Upper Tor, Mill Tor, Woodbank Tor or Mole Trap Buttress).

 

In the event of an emergency if access is needed on foot to the base of the crag there is a gate at river level. Call Manor Adventure, at Willersley Castle on 01629 348009 and request that a member of staff unlock the gate.

 

Puma Buttress, Slippery Slabs and New Bridge Buttress are not within the grounds of Manor Adventure and access to these is unproblematic.

 

 

 

38m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Start from a slightly raised ledge at the base of the crag.
1) 4c, 16m. Traverse left and climb a flaky groove left of the arete and the wide crack then a bulge to reach the ledge and stance on the right.
2) 4b, 22m. Go left and follow the shallow groove round the right edge of the black bulges, then finish up the crack above. © Rockfax

FA. (P1) Dez Hadlum, Dennis Gray 1960, (P2) Doug Scott, I.Thorlaby 1963.

Ticklists

Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs

Feedback

User Date Notes
pdhu 21 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Worth 2 stars, even with the occasional band of loose rock. Nicely sustained, and a good natural line. And easier with jams.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Worth 2 stars, even with the occasional band of loose rock. Nicely sustained, and a good natural line. And easier with jams.
Sankey 16 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Hissing originating from a birds nest on the first pitch of this route so did Jackdaw's start, top pitch is great fun.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Hissing originating from a birds nest on the first pitch of this route so did Jackdaw's start, top pitch is great fun.
Marcus Tierney 2 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A nice two pitch route with an airy feel to the top pitch recommended
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A nice two pitch route with an airy feel to the top pitch recommended
Sam and will 21 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: this is one of the classics of the crag, i must do if your in the area!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: this is one of the classics of the crag, i must do if your in the area!

Logged Ascents

556 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Wildcat

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 66
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 60
Votes cast 57
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Ten Craters of Wisdom

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Dovedale)

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