UKC

Restricted Access

15th September 2023 Update:

Access via abseil, as per the previous agreement is now restored following on from discussions with Manor Adventure the installation of new signage. 

Wildcat Main Crag cannot be accessed via the old approach, which was through a gap in the boundary wall below crag level. All climbers must now approach by walking to the top of the crag (path to the left of the wall and fence) and abseiling to the crag base. Climbers must not stray beyond the end of the crag or down to the river. This agreement with the landowner should be adhered to at all times and is a condition of access for climbers. 

The crag falls within a parcel of land now being used for outdoor education of children and young adults. For insurance and safeguarding reasons the landowners have created a secure boundary around the site and wish to control and minimise unsupervised access between the public and their residential charges. By limiting access only to climbers who will stay in close proximity to the crag there is sufficient buffer zone between the crag and other areas of the site.

A new fence has been installed along the line of the old wall to prevent the public walking onto the site. This blocks off the previous approach path, but please do not attempt to climb over the fence, or access via the river level gate (even if found open). Please instead access the crag from above by abseil. It is imperative that climbers follow this new approach and self-police. The fence line is visible to instructors using the river below and is monitored with security cameras. Any attempt to access via the fence will be noted by site staff and will result in access being withdrawn. If you see other people trying to climb over the fence, please inform them this is not acceptable – it is up to all climbers to help keep access open.

Currently four in-situ abseil stations are in place at the top of Jackdaw Grooves, Lynx, Tut’s Anomalous and Climacteric. Once you abseil in, please stay in close proximity to the base of the crag where you will be well away from site users.

Due to their close proximity to areas being used by children, access is no longer granted to the four smaller crags south of Wildcat Main Crag (Upper Tor, Mill Tor, Woodbank Tor or Mole Trap Buttress).

 

In the event of an emergency if access is needed on foot to the base of the crag there is a gate at river level. Call Manor Adventure, at Willersley Castle on 01629 348009 and request that a member of staff unlock the gate.

 

Puma Buttress, Slippery Slabs and New Bridge Buttress are not within the grounds of Manor Adventure and access to these is unproblematic.

 

 

 

38m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A shiny classic up a neat hanging groove above a hidden cave.
1) 4b, 10m. Climb a groove to reach a tree, step right then continue to another of those strange stances in a cave.
2) 5a, 28m. Enter the groove and balance up it to a roof, then swing right to follow cracks in a fine position. © Rockfax

FA. Doug Scott, Steve Read (1pt) 1963. FFA. Unknown.

Ticklists

Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , The Peak: Past and Present , World Graded List , UK Classic Corners , Peak Rock/10/White Life , Ultimate HVS ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Peak District Limestone Trad

Feedback

User Date Notes
Brown 11 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Good as a single pitch
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good as a single pitch
Alan James - Rockfax 18 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Great upper groove and the crux isn\'t where you think it should be when you look from below.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great upper groove and the crux isn't where you think it should be when you look from below.
migs493 18 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Led second pitch. Steady for the grade. Gear when you need it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Led second pitch. Steady for the grade. Gear when you need it.
PaulW 17 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: solid HVS, hard bridging up the groove and then tricky pull over near the top, both worth 5A. Good gear though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: solid HVS, hard bridging up the groove and then tricky pull over near the top, both worth 5A. Good gear though.
Marcus Tierney 2 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A super route at the top end of the grade although I have not done the route since the rockfall.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A super route at the top end of the grade although I have not done the route since the rockfall.
GrahamD 2 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Don't know why this is HVS. The only 5a move is near the top off a good resting ledge with gear above you. A superb VS, though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Don't know why this is HVS. The only 5a move is near the top off a good resting ledge with gear above you. A superb VS, though.
Stu Tyrrell 29 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A hugh block came off the second pitch in late 2003, luck the belayer was in the cave! It might be a little harder now?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A hugh block came off the second pitch in late 2003, luck the belayer was in the cave! It might be a little harder now?

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 146
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 141
Votes cast 135
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Great Buttress

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Dovestone Tor)

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