Access Banned
The owner has stated that due to breaches of the agreed access arrangements:
- Access is now revoked
- Signage and abseil anchors will be removed
- Security cameras have been installed
- Manor Adventure will "treat any attempt to enter the grounds as aggravated trespass."
The BMC are seeking dialogue, any change will be communicated via the RAD
Puma Buttress, Slippery Slabs and New Bridge Buttress are not included and access is still possible to these areas.
Rockfax Description
A superb second pitch follows the hanging rib right of Manx.
1) 4b, 14m. Climb onto a pedestal then continue up the groove to a bizarre stance in a unique cave.
2) 5a, 30m. Climb up right then traverse left above the cave to access the right wall of the hanging prow. Follow this with interest to a possible stance and finish up the wide crack of Manx over on the left, or Lynx to the right. The cave taken direct is E1 5c. © Rockfax
FA. Tom Proctor, Al Evans, Keith Myhill 1976.
Ticklists
100 More Classic British VS Climbs , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , Classic Peak Limestone Trad - VDiff to E2 , The Peak: Past and Present , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Definitive *** Peak Lime , On Peak Rock , Best Belay Spots , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| Fraser kid | 2 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Definitely better and more in the grade if you traverse on the lowest foothold and the one above that, just above the cave. It’s cheating going higher up the corner then moving left! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Definitely better and more in the grade if you traverse on the lowest foothold and the one above that, just above the cave. It’s cheating going higher up the corner then moving left! |
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| markpollak | 20 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Did in 1 pitch. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Did in 1 pitch. |
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| Alan James - UKC and UKH | 18 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Superb route with beautiful rock on the second pitch. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Superb route with beautiful rock on the second pitch. |
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| Matthew Davies | 21 May, 2020 |
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βeta: A little polished at the lower half, the cave smells like shit. Tat at the top out is in good condition. Good feat at the crux, and some nice jugs | ||
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Show beta
βeta: A little polished at the lower half, the cave smells like shit. Tat at the top out is in good condition. Good feat at the crux, and some nice jugs |
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| Alkis | 10 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: P2. Not sure I’d even count P1 as a pitch. | βeta? | |
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βeta: P2. Not sure I’d even count P1 as a pitch. |
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| Al Evans | 24 May, 2007 |
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βeta: Actually the time has come for the facts about this route to be known. Tom Proctor led none of this climb. The main pitch was led by Keith Myhill, the rest by me. The name in fact comes from a response to Keith's criticism of Drummonds sky hook activities, "Dont be silly Mr Myhill, its not your hill, you do not hold the yardstick" The Golden comes from the light cast on the climb late in the day. Tom was a god in those days and people just assumed evereybody who climbed with him was just along for the ride, but this is Keith's route, I was the bit player and Tom was just along for the ride. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Actually the time has come for the facts about this route to be known. Tom Proctor led none of this climb. The main pitch was led by Keith Myhill, the rest by me. The name in fact comes from a response to Keith's criticism of Drummonds sky hook activities, "Dont be silly Mr Myhill, its not your hill, you do not hold the yardstick" The Golden comes from the light cast on the climb late in the day. Tom was a god in those days and people just assumed evereybody who climbed with him was just along for the ride, but this is Keith's route, I was the bit player and Tom was just along for the ride. |
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| GrahamD | 31 Jan, 2005 |
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βeta: Pitch 2 has unusually fingery climbing for VS in a very exposed position. Superb ! As with most routes here, it can easily be tackled in one pitch unless you want the moral support for the first step over onto the slab. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Pitch 2 has unusually fingery climbing for VS in a very exposed position. Superb ! As with most routes here, it can easily be tackled in one pitch unless you want the moral support for the first step over onto the slab. |
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| Chris the Tall | 18 May, 2004 |
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βeta: Scrapy first pitch, superb moves for most of the second (though possibly only 4c), and a scrapy finish. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Scrapy first pitch, superb moves for most of the second (though possibly only 4c), and a scrapy finish. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Wildcat
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
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Great Harry
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Lawrencefield)