Restricted Access
15th September 2023 Update:
Access via abseil, as per the previous agreement is now restored following on from discussions with Manor Adventure the installation of new signage.
Wildcat Main Crag cannot be accessed via the old approach, which was through a gap in the boundary wall below crag level. All climbers must now approach by walking to the top of the crag (path to the left of the wall and fence) and abseiling to the crag base. Climbers must not stray beyond the end of the crag or down to the river. This agreement with the landowner should be adhered to at all times and is a condition of access for climbers.
The crag falls within a parcel of land now being used for outdoor education of children and young adults. For insurance and safeguarding reasons the landowners have created a secure boundary around the site and wish to control and minimise unsupervised access between the public and their residential charges. By limiting access only to climbers who will stay in close proximity to the crag there is sufficient buffer zone between the crag and other areas of the site.
A new fence has been installed along the line of the old wall to prevent the public walking onto the site. This blocks off the previous approach path, but please do not attempt to climb over the fence, or access via the river level gate (even if found open). Please instead access the crag from above by abseil. It is imperative that climbers follow this new approach and self-police. The fence line is visible to instructors using the river below and is monitored with security cameras. Any attempt to access via the fence will be noted by site staff and will result in access being withdrawn. If you see other people trying to climb over the fence, please inform them this is not acceptable – it is up to all climbers to help keep access open.
Currently four in-situ abseil stations are in place at the top of Jackdaw Grooves, Lynx, Tut’s Anomalous and Climacteric. Once you abseil in, please stay in close proximity to the base of the crag where you will be well away from site users.
Due to their close proximity to areas being used by children, access is no longer granted to the four smaller crags south of Wildcat Main Crag (Upper Tor, Mill Tor, Woodbank Tor or Mole Trap Buttress).
Puma Buttress, Slippery Slabs and New Bridge Buttress are not within the grounds of Manor Adventure and access to these is unproblematic.
Rockfax Description
A superb second pitch follows the hanging rib right of Manx.
1) 4b, 14m. Climb onto a pedestal then continue up the groove to a bizarre stance in a unique cave.
2) 5a, 30m. Climb up right then traverse left above the cave to access the right wall of the hanging prow. Follow this with interest to a possible stance and finish up the wide crack of Manx over on the left, or Lynx to the right. The cave taken direct is E1 5c. © Rockfax
FA. Tom Proctor, Al Evans, Keith Myhill 1976.
Ticklists
100 More Classic British VS Climbs , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , Classic Peak Limestone Trad - VDiff to E2 , The Peak: Past and Present , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Definitive *** Peak Lime , On Peak Rock , Best Belay Spots , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| Fraser kid | 2 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Definitely better and more in the grade if you traverse on the lowest foothold and the one above that, just above the cave. It’s cheating going higher up the corner then moving left! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Definitely better and more in the grade if you traverse on the lowest foothold and the one above that, just above the cave. It’s cheating going higher up the corner then moving left! |
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| markpollak | 20 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Did in 1 pitch. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Did in 1 pitch. |
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| Alan James - UKC and UKH | 18 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Superb route with beautiful rock on the second pitch. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Superb route with beautiful rock on the second pitch. |
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| Matthew Davies | 21 May, 2020 |
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βeta: A little polished at the lower half, the cave smells like shit. Tat at the top out is in good condition. Good feat at the crux, and some nice jugs | ||
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βeta: A little polished at the lower half, the cave smells like shit. Tat at the top out is in good condition. Good feat at the crux, and some nice jugs |
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| Alkis | 10 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: P2. Not sure I’d even count P1 as a pitch. | βeta? | |
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βeta: P2. Not sure I’d even count P1 as a pitch. |
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| Al Evans | 24 May, 2007 |
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βeta: Actually the time has come for the facts about this route to be known. Tom Proctor led none of this climb. The main pitch was led by Keith Myhill, the rest by me. The name in fact comes from a response to Keith's criticism of Drummonds sky hook activities, "Dont be silly Mr Myhill, its not your hill, you do not hold the yardstick" The Golden comes from the light cast on the climb late in the day. Tom was a god in those days and people just assumed evereybody who climbed with him was just along for the ride, but this is Keith's route, I was the bit player and Tom was just along for the ride. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Actually the time has come for the facts about this route to be known. Tom Proctor led none of this climb. The main pitch was led by Keith Myhill, the rest by me. The name in fact comes from a response to Keith's criticism of Drummonds sky hook activities, "Dont be silly Mr Myhill, its not your hill, you do not hold the yardstick" The Golden comes from the light cast on the climb late in the day. Tom was a god in those days and people just assumed evereybody who climbed with him was just along for the ride, but this is Keith's route, I was the bit player and Tom was just along for the ride. |
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| GrahamD | 31 Jan, 2005 |
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βeta: Pitch 2 has unusually fingery climbing for VS in a very exposed position. Superb ! As with most routes here, it can easily be tackled in one pitch unless you want the moral support for the first step over onto the slab. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Pitch 2 has unusually fingery climbing for VS in a very exposed position. Superb ! As with most routes here, it can easily be tackled in one pitch unless you want the moral support for the first step over onto the slab. |
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| Chris the Tall | 18 May, 2004 |
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βeta: Scrapy first pitch, superb moves for most of the second (though possibly only 4c), and a scrapy finish. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Scrapy first pitch, superb moves for most of the second (though possibly only 4c), and a scrapy finish. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Wildcat
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
High Neb Buttress
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stanage North)