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44m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A superb second pitch follows the hanging rib right of Manx.
1) 4b, 14m. Climb onto a pedestal then continue up the groove to a bizarre stance in a unique cave.
2) 5a, 30m. Climb up right then traverse left above the cave to access the right wall of the hanging prow. Follow this with interest to a possible stance and finish up the wide crack of Manx over on the left, or the arete above. The cave taken direct is E1 5c. © Rockfax

FA. Tom Proctor, Al Evans, Keith Myhill 1976.

Ticklists

100 More Classic British VS Climbs, Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50, Classic Peak Limestone Trad - VDiff to E2, The Peak: Past and Present, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Definitive *** Peak Lime, On Peak Rock

Feedback

User Date Notes
Alan James - UKC and UKH 18 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Superb route with beautiful rock on the second pitch.
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βeta: Superb route with beautiful rock on the second pitch.
Matthew Davies 21 May Show βeta
βeta: A little polished at the lower half, the cave smells like shit. Tat at the top out is in good condition. Good feat at the crux, and some nice jugs
 
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βeta: A little polished at the lower half, the cave smells like shit. Tat at the top out is in good condition. Good feat at the crux, and some nice jugs
Alkis 10 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: P2. Not sure I’d even count P1 as a pitch.
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βeta: P2. Not sure I’d even count P1 as a pitch.
Al Evans 24 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Actually the time has come for the facts about this route to be known. Tom Proctor led none of this climb. The main pitch was led by Keith Myhill, the rest by me. The name in fact comes from a response to Keith's criticism of Drummonds sky hook activities, "Dont be silly Mr Myhill, its not your hill, you do not hold the yardstick" The Golden comes from the light cast on the climb late in the day. Tom was a god in those days and people just assumed evereybody who climbed with him was just along for the ride, but this is Keith's route, I was the bit player and Tom was just along for the ride.
βeta?
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βeta: Actually the time has come for the facts about this route to be known. Tom Proctor led none of this climb. The main pitch was led by Keith Myhill, the rest by me. The name in fact comes from a response to Keith's criticism of Drummonds sky hook activities, "Dont be silly Mr Myhill, its not your hill, you do not hold the yardstick" The Golden comes from the light cast on the climb late in the day. Tom was a god in those days and people just assumed evereybody who climbed with him was just along for the ride, but this is Keith's route, I was the bit player and Tom was just along for the ride.
GrahamD 31 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 2 has unusually fingery climbing for VS in a very exposed position. Superb ! As with most routes here, it can easily be tackled in one pitch unless you want the moral support for the first step over onto the slab.
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βeta: Pitch 2 has unusually fingery climbing for VS in a very exposed position. Superb ! As with most routes here, it can easily be tackled in one pitch unless you want the moral support for the first step over onto the slab.
Chris the Tall 18 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Scrapy first pitch, superb moves for most of the second (though possibly only 4c), and a scrapy finish.
βeta?
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βeta: Scrapy first pitch, superb moves for most of the second (though possibly only 4c), and a scrapy finish.

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Mid HVS
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Mid VS
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High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 148
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 150
Votes cast 144
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Tower Face

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Laddow)