UKC

Restricted Access

15th September 2023 Update:

Access via abseil, as per the previous agreement is now restored following on from discussions with Manor Adventure the installation of new signage. 

Wildcat Main Crag cannot be accessed via the old approach, which was through a gap in the boundary wall below crag level. All climbers must now approach by walking to the top of the crag (path to the left of the wall and fence) and abseiling to the crag base. Climbers must not stray beyond the end of the crag or down to the river. This agreement with the landowner should be adhered to at all times and is a condition of access for climbers. 

The crag falls within a parcel of land now being used for outdoor education of children and young adults. For insurance and safeguarding reasons the landowners have created a secure boundary around the site and wish to control and minimise unsupervised access between the public and their residential charges. By limiting access only to climbers who will stay in close proximity to the crag there is sufficient buffer zone between the crag and other areas of the site.

A new fence has been installed along the line of the old wall to prevent the public walking onto the site. This blocks off the previous approach path, but please do not attempt to climb over the fence, or access via the river level gate (even if found open). Please instead access the crag from above by abseil. It is imperative that climbers follow this new approach and self-police. The fence line is visible to instructors using the river below and is monitored with security cameras. Any attempt to access via the fence will be noted by site staff and will result in access being withdrawn. If you see other people trying to climb over the fence, please inform them this is not acceptable – it is up to all climbers to help keep access open.

Currently four in-situ abseil stations are in place at the top of Jackdaw Grooves, Lynx, Tut’s Anomalous and Climacteric. Once you abseil in, please stay in close proximity to the base of the crag where you will be well away from site users.

Due to their close proximity to areas being used by children, access is no longer granted to the four smaller crags south of Wildcat Main Crag (Upper Tor, Mill Tor, Woodbank Tor or Mole Trap Buttress).

 

In the event of an emergency if access is needed on foot to the base of the crag there is a gate at river level. Call Manor Adventure, at Willersley Castle on 01629 348009 and request that a member of staff unlock the gate.

 

Puma Buttress, Slippery Slabs and New Bridge Buttress are not within the grounds of Manor Adventure and access to these is unproblematic.

 

 

 

46m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A right-to-left diagonal line with plenty of interesting climbing. Polished in places, though that doesn't detract too much.
1) 4b, 30m. From a stumpy pedestal (scratched name) move up past a tree and take a diagonal line left across slabs to a steep groove. Climb this to a ledge and tree belay.
2) 4a, 20m. Continue across and left following the series of cracks and corners to a steep crack to finish. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Read, Steve Hunt 1958.

Ticklists

Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , Classic Peak Limestone Trad - VDiff to E2 , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs

Feedback

User Date Notes
dpmUK 6 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Also thought the second pitch was harder than the first. IMO it warrants HS 4b, 4b.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Also thought the second pitch was harder than the first. IMO it warrants HS 4b, 4b.
Dominion 3 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: My first HS (and multi-pitch) lead. The top pitch is lovely, although the wide crack at the top is a little intimidating at first - for someone who hadn't lead anything more than a VDiff before ;-)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: My first HS (and multi-pitch) lead. The top pitch is lovely, although the wide crack at the top is a little intimidating at first - for someone who hadn't lead anything more than a VDiff before ;-)
fenclimb 2 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Thought the second pitch was harder then the first.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Thought the second pitch was harder then the first.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 112
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 78
Votes cast 107
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Christmas Crack

Grade: HS 4a ***
(Stanage Popular)

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