UKC

40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
1) 4b, 22m. Start up Lynx but where it starts to trend left move out right and climb a groove and rib to a stance and tree belay.
2) 5a, 18m. Climb the groove on the left then step left (ancient ring-peg and not much else) and make a short traverse and tricky mantelshelf to enter a wide crack. Finish easily up this. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Read, Will Mcloughlin 1963.

Ticklists

Peak Rock/10/White Life , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs

Feedback

User Date Notes
Chris Murray 4 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Friend 4 really useful at the end of the traverse!
Show beta
βeta: Friend 4 really useful at the end of the traverse!
dr_botnik 26 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: 2 ants nests and a rose bush ruin the first pitch. A shame there isn't a better way to access the top bit of climbing!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 2 ants nests and a rose bush ruin the first pitch. A shame there isn't a better way to access the top bit of climbing!
stevomcd 19 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: May have been off line, but the "move out right and climb a groove" description should really mention the rose bushes you have to plow through... Top pitch very scary, arguably worth HVS, especially in the dark...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: May have been off line, but the "move out right and climb a groove" description should really mention the rose bushes you have to plow through... Top pitch very scary, arguably worth HVS, especially in the dark...
DrGav 8 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: On a damp Nov day, the second pitch felt hard for 4c. I attempted to continue up the crack but retreated and faced the slippery mantelshelf like a man. Almost chickened out again but eventually committed and hauled up. Tough in the damp.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: On a damp Nov day, the second pitch felt hard for 4c. I attempted to continue up the crack but retreated and faced the slippery mantelshelf like a man. Almost chickened out again but eventually committed and hauled up. Tough in the damp.

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 70
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 68
Votes cast 61
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Birch Tree Wall Direct

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Black Rocks)

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