UKC

Restricted Access

Access via abseil, as per the previous agreement is now restored following on from discussions with Manor Adventure and the provision of new signage (not yet installed by MA). 

Wildcat Main Crag cannot be accessed via the old approach, which was through a gap in the boundary wall below crag level. All climbers must now approach by walking to the top of the crag (path to the left of the wall and fence) and abseiling to the crag base. Climbers must not stray beyond the end of the crag or down to the river. This agreement with the landowner should be adhered to and is a condition of access for climbers. 

The crag falls within a parcel of land used for outdoor education of children and young adults. For insurance and safeguarding reasons the landowners have created a secure boundary around the site and wish to control and minimise unsupervised access between the public and their residential charges. By limiting access only to climbers who will stay in close proximity to the crag there is sufficient buffer zone between the crag and other areas of the site.

A new fence has been installed along the line of the old wall to prevent the public walking onto the site. This blocks off the previous approach path, but please do not attempt to climb over the fence, or access via the river level gate (even if found open). Please instead access the crag from above by abseil. It is imperative that climbers follow this new approach and self-police. The fence line is visible to instructors using the river below and is monitored with security cameras. Any attempt to access via the fence will be noted by site staff and will result in access being withdrawn. If you see other people trying to climb over the fence, please inform them this is not acceptable – it is up to all climbers to help keep access open.

Currently seven in-situ abseil stations are in place at the top of Catacomb, Broken Toe, Coyote Buttress, Sourpuss, Cat Walk, Lynx and Octopuss. Once you abseil in, please stay in close proximity to the base of the crag where you will be well away from site users.

Due to their close proximity to areas being used by children, access is no longer granted to the four smaller crags south of Wildcat Main Crag (Upper Tor, Mill Tor, Woodbank Tor or Mole Trap Buttress).

 

In the event of an emergency if access is needed on foot to the base of the crag there is a gate at river level. Call Manor Adventure, at Willersley Castle on 01629 348009 and request that a member of staff unlock the gate.

 

Puma Buttress, Slippery Slabs and New Bridge Buttress are not within the grounds of Manor Adventure and access to these is unproblematic.

 

 

 

Start up Cat Call and keep going rightwards to finish up Cataclysm. Full description in BMC Limestone South guide. Bit vegetatated in places but a fine expedition

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User Date Notes
193 13 Nov, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: 790 feet Ten pitches 1 , 110 ft. 4c 2 , 80ft. 5a 3, 110 ft 4b 4, 80ft 4c 5, 30ft 4b 6, 60ft 4b 7 70ft. 4a 8, 90ft. 5a 9 70ft. 5c. 10 80ft 4c
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 790 feet Ten pitches 1 , 110 ft. 4c 2 , 80ft. 5a 3, 110 ft 4b 4, 80ft 4c 5, 30ft 4b 6, 60ft 4b 7 70ft. 4a 8, 90ft. 5a 9 70ft. 5c. 10 80ft 4c

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Onsighted
DNF
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Route of Interest
The Link

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Stanage Popular)

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