UKC

48m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Two interesting pitches make this route worth doing - some rock needs care. Start at a flaky groove in the centre of the buttress.
1) 4c, 22m. Climb a crack and groove to a ledge. Step left to a ledge on the arete. Climb this then make a hard move up into the groove on the right. Climb the groove. It is possible to climb direct instead of moving right into the top groove.
2) 4b, 26m. Climb the chimney/crack around left of the arete, then step right and follow the long crack on good holds and in a great position all the way to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
For pitch 1 dont go up to the overlap. Step L well below it, onto an obvious ledge on the left and move up the rib to pull R into the groove - or continue up rib/arete. It is much harder to get into the groove from the right - at the level of the overlap (5a/b). Think there is some confusion about overlaps - the old Derwent Valley guide (1981) mentions 2 overlaps, and it seems this first overlap - where you move L - has disappeared.

FA. Tony Watts, Steve Bowes 1963.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Matthew Davies 21 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Loose rock, overgrown. Easy climbing
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Loose rock, overgrown. Easy climbing
Martin Hore 21 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The UKC Logbook description is correct. The Rockfax Peak Limestone description improves on the earlier Rockfax Northern Limestone description by saying the traverse is easier if you stay low but to do this at VS you need to stay very low and step left to the ledge on the arete. From there you climb the arete and then move right to the ledge at the base of the groove (or continue up the arete). I traversed about a metre below the overlap, on small but good incut holds, but I was still too high and had to make the move into the groove from the right. This is desperate - way harder than VS and a long way above gear. Someone with VS as their top grade could have a bad mishap here. My second went the correct way. Martin
Show beta
βeta: The UKC Logbook description is correct. The Rockfax Peak Limestone description improves on the earlier Rockfax Northern Limestone description by saying the traverse is easier if you stay low but to do this at VS you need to stay very low and step left to the ledge on the arete. From there you climb the arete and then move right to the ledge at the base of the groove (or continue up the arete). I traversed about a metre below the overlap, on small but good incut holds, but I was still too high and had to make the move into the groove from the right. This is desperate - way harder than VS and a long way above gear. Someone with VS as their top grade could have a bad mishap here. My second went the correct way. Martin

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 26
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 22
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Great Harry

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Lawrencefield)

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