UKC

Restricted Access

15th September 2023 Update:

Access via abseil, as per the previous agreement is now restored following on from discussions with Manor Adventure the installation of new signage. 

Wildcat Main Crag cannot be accessed via the old approach, which was through a gap in the boundary wall below crag level. All climbers must now approach by walking to the top of the crag (path to the left of the wall and fence) and abseiling to the crag base. Climbers must not stray beyond the end of the crag or down to the river. This agreement with the landowner should be adhered to at all times and is a condition of access for climbers. 

The crag falls within a parcel of land now being used for outdoor education of children and young adults. For insurance and safeguarding reasons the landowners have created a secure boundary around the site and wish to control and minimise unsupervised access between the public and their residential charges. By limiting access only to climbers who will stay in close proximity to the crag there is sufficient buffer zone between the crag and other areas of the site.

A new fence has been installed along the line of the old wall to prevent the public walking onto the site. This blocks off the previous approach path, but please do not attempt to climb over the fence, or access via the river level gate (even if found open). Please instead access the crag from above by abseil. It is imperative that climbers follow this new approach and self-police. The fence line is visible to instructors using the river below and is monitored with security cameras. Any attempt to access via the fence will be noted by site staff and will result in access being withdrawn. If you see other people trying to climb over the fence, please inform them this is not acceptable – it is up to all climbers to help keep access open.

Currently four in-situ abseil stations are in place at the top of Jackdaw Grooves, Lynx, Tut’s Anomalous and Climacteric. Once you abseil in, please stay in close proximity to the base of the crag where you will be well away from site users.

Due to their close proximity to areas being used by children, access is no longer granted to the four smaller crags south of Wildcat Main Crag (Upper Tor, Mill Tor, Woodbank Tor or Mole Trap Buttress).

 

In the event of an emergency if access is needed on foot to the base of the crag there is a gate at river level. Call Manor Adventure, at Willersley Castle on 01629 348009 and request that a member of staff unlock the gate.

 

Puma Buttress, Slippery Slabs and New Bridge Buttress are not within the grounds of Manor Adventure and access to these is unproblematic.

 

 

 

48m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Two interesting pitches make this route worth doing - some rock needs care. Start at a flaky groove in the centre of the buttress.
1) 4c, 22m. Climb a crack and groove to a ledge. Step left to a ledge on the arete. Climb this then make a hard move up into the groove on the right. Climb the groove. It is possible to climb direct instead of moving right into the top groove.
2) 4b, 26m. Climb the chimney/crack around left of the arete, then step right and follow the long crack on good holds and in a great position all the way to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
For pitch 1 dont go up to the overlap. Step L well below it, onto an obvious ledge on the left and move up the rib to pull R into the groove - or continue up rib/arete. It is much harder to get into the groove from the right - at the level of the overlap (5a/b). Think there is some confusion about overlaps - the old Derwent Valley guide (1981) mentions 2 overlaps, and it seems this first overlap - where you move L - has disappeared.

FA. Tony Watts, Steve Bowes 1963.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Matthew Davies 21 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Loose rock, overgrown. Easy climbing
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Loose rock, overgrown. Easy climbing
Martin Hore 21 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The UKC Logbook description is correct. The Rockfax Peak Limestone description improves on the earlier Rockfax Northern Limestone description by saying the traverse is easier if you stay low but to do this at VS you need to stay very low and step left to the ledge on the arete. From there you climb the arete and then move right to the ledge at the base of the groove (or continue up the arete). I traversed about a metre below the overlap, on small but good incut holds, but I was still too high and had to make the move into the groove from the right. This is desperate - way harder than VS and a long way above gear. Someone with VS as their top grade could have a bad mishap here. My second went the correct way. Martin
Show beta
βeta: The UKC Logbook description is correct. The Rockfax Peak Limestone description improves on the earlier Rockfax Northern Limestone description by saying the traverse is easier if you stay low but to do this at VS you need to stay very low and step left to the ledge on the arete. From there you climb the arete and then move right to the ledge at the base of the groove (or continue up the arete). I traversed about a metre below the overlap, on small but good incut holds, but I was still too high and had to make the move into the groove from the right. This is desperate - way harder than VS and a long way above gear. Someone with VS as their top grade could have a bad mishap here. My second went the correct way. Martin

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Wildcat

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 26
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 22
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Martello Buttress

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stanage Popular)

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