UKC

Restricted Access

The Willersley area is owned by the Arkwright Society. It is essential that climbers do not block gateways with parked cars and that disturbance is keep to a minimum. Access negotiations have been on-going between the BMC and the Arkwright Society, and climbers continue to access the crag. If you are asked to leave, please remain courteous and report the incident to the BMC.

38m.

Rockfax Description
A once popular route (at HVS) up a good natural line, now polished and the old pegs are terrible. Climb the pocketed wall to the overhangs. Traverse right to enter the groove, continuing by sustained bridging and jamming until things ease. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A fine route up a strong natural line. Climb the pocketed wall to the overhangs then traverse right passing old pegs - the polished crux, - to enter the hidden groove. Up this by pleasantly sustained bridging and jamming until things ease. Pegs still in place but poor (Sept 10)

FA. Steve Read, Steve Hunt (3 pts) 1960.

Ticklists

Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs

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User Date Notes
Richard 261 13 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Never mind sticky rubber, you need ice skates for this one. Nasty! Nasty! Nasty! Don't do it. I couldn't second it, so I went and led God (E1) instead.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Never mind sticky rubber, you need ice skates for this one. Nasty! Nasty! Nasty! Don't do it. I couldn't second it, so I went and led God (E1) instead.
drcorbasisgod 25 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Agree with Jon entirely - led this at the weekend and the traverse is quite hairy for both lead and second. You can see your face in those footholds!! The top is a bit loose and vegetated to boot. Altogether overrated.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Agree with Jon entirely - led this at the weekend and the traverse is quite hairy for both lead and second. You can see your face in those footholds!! The top is a bit loose and vegetated to boot. Altogether overrated.
Jonny2vests 16 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Stiff, polished & now quite bold. The peg protecting the crux is gone and the one before is seriously bent after some previous adventure and the one after is also not great but with a good nut next to it. I've done many easier E1 5c's - needs upgrading.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Stiff, polished & now quite bold. The peg protecting the crux is gone and the one before is seriously bent after some previous adventure and the one after is also not great but with a good nut next to it. I've done many easier E1 5c's - needs upgrading.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Willersley Castle Rocks

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 24
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 18
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Ivory Tower

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Kinder Southern Edges)

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