Restricted Access

The Willersley area is owned by the Arkwright Society. It is essential that climbers do not block gateways with parked cars and that disturbance is keep to a minimum. Access negotiations have been on-going between the BMC and the Arkwright Society, and climbers continue to access the crag. If you are asked to leave, please remain courteous and report the incident to the BMC.

32m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A direct line but neglected and with loose rock high up.
1) 5b, 18m. Climb straight up the pocketed wall to the hanging lump and pull right past this before sprinting up a short groove and the wall to a stance.
2) 5b, 14m. Climb the slim groove above and left - loose - to join Gangue Grooves. The original line moved right to the arete but this is under ivy. © Rockfax

FA. Gary Gibson, Adey Hubbard 1979.


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Guidebooks for Willersley Castle Rocks

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 4
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Not Set
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Link

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Stanage Popular)

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