UKC

Restricted Access

The Willersley area is owned by the Arkwright Society. It is essential that climbers do not block gateways with parked cars and that disturbance is keep to a minimum. Access negotiations have been on-going between the BMC and the Arkwright Society, and climbers continue to access the crag. If you are asked to leave, please remain courteous and report the incident to the BMC.

Rockfax Description
This is the original line of Pleasure Dome which gives great exposed climbing after a difficult start.
1) 5c, 20m. Climb a wall - thin on gear - to reach a crack to the right of an overlap. Make some steep pulls up this then trend right to the bulge. Pull over past a peg and thread then move right to a stance on Pothole Wall.
2) 5b, 14m. Swing left and up to a ledge then climb up and right to another ledge in a spectacular position. Finish up a crack. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
This is the original line of Pleasure Dome.
1) 5c, 20m. Climb a wall - thin on gear - to reach a crack to the right of an overlap. Make some steep pulls up this then trend right to the bulge. Pull over past a peg and thread then move right to a stance on Pothole Wall.
2) 5b, 14m. Swing left and up to a ledge then climb up in a great position before moving back right to another ledge in a spectacular position. Finish up a crack.

FA. Phil Wilson, Mark Walton, John Walker 1978.

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User Date Notes
Alan James - Rockfax 18 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: This is the proper original line of Pleasure Dome which starts up the wall left of the version marked in more recent guidebooks. If you climbed this you may need to re-log it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This is the proper original line of Pleasure Dome which starts up the wall left of the version marked in more recent guidebooks. If you climbed this you may need to re-log it.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Willersley Castle Rocks

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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 1
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Ground Up
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Waterloo Sunset

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Gardom's Edge)

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