UKC

35m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fine and popular route with just a couple of hard moves which are well protected by fixed gear. The first pitch feels quite pushy.
1) 4c, 20m. Climb the shallow right-facing groove (polished) then trend left under the ivy on spaced jugs to reach a small exposed stance with good belays.
2) 5a, 15m. Passing the pothole involves an awkward and constricted traverse (threads) to reach a ledge. Step back to the left and finish up the hanging groove. An alternative finish out right ends up in an ugly shrubby gully and is best avoided. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Read, K.Beech (some aid) 1959.

Ticklists

100 More Classic British VS Climbs , Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs

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User Date Notes
JHiley 22 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Led P2. Threads were a faff to place as there were none in situ. P1 seemed quite sketch with steep, loose rock and poor gear options in the middle.
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βeta: Led P2. Threads were a faff to place as there were none in situ. P1 seemed quite sketch with steep, loose rock and poor gear options in the middle.
C May 13 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: No in situ gear. Tim lead in one pitch on twin ropes. Oddly polished with lots of loose bits. Great position for VS for need to be competent VS if out off by wobbly rock!!
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βeta: No in situ gear. Tim lead in one pitch on twin ropes. Oddly polished with lots of loose bits. Great position for VS for need to be competent VS if out off by wobbly rock!!
andyblain 11 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: No in situ threads on traverse
βeta?
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βeta: No in situ threads on traverse
wjvt 6 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Pulled off a jug the size of a grapefruit halfway up but the route isn\'t affected
βeta?
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βeta: Pulled off a jug the size of a grapefruit halfway up but the route isn't affected
Ian Carr 25 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Feels like HVS these days and in the heat of a very hot day.
βeta?
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βeta: Feels like HVS these days and in the heat of a very hot day.
MNA123 22 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Really enjoyed this route, polished start but it's fine with a cool head.
βeta?
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βeta: Really enjoyed this route, polished start but it's fine with a cool head.
GrahamD 13 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Probably loses a star for the starting polish. In situ tat (pitch 2) is no more but this makes little difference as you can put as much gear in as you like. I have to say I've done harder '5b' moves !
βeta?
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βeta: Probably loses a star for the starting polish. In situ tat (pitch 2) is no more but this makes little difference as you can put as much gear in as you like. I have to say I've done harder '5b' moves !

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 85
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 81
Votes cast 80
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Hawk's Nest Crack

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Froggatt Edge)

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