UKC

34m.

Rockfax Description
A fine climb with a butch crux that feels a long way off the ground. Climb the long groove to the bulges then power left through these on a series of pockets (old tat) to a tough pull into the groove. Finish direct - sensible, or exit rightwards - illogical and guaranteed to increase rope-drag. © Rockfax

FFA. Keith Myhill 1969. FA. Steve Read, Steve Hunt 1958.

Ticklists

Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade, Definitive *** Peak Lime

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User Date Notes
mrteale 10 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Replaced one of the threads and also backed up the lower one (both with green 7mm cord) in the roof - 10.08.20 should be good for a while.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Replaced one of the threads and also backed up the lower one (both with green 7mm cord) in the roof - 10.08.20 should be good for a while.
debsb 23 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: New maillon but rope at belay in very poor condition and needs to be removed, 22/08/19.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: New maillon but rope at belay in very poor condition and needs to be removed, 22/08/19.
Katya 22 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A great route. Really quite qirty at present, it needs more climbers and less spiders. Don't remember a 'series of unhelpful pockets', just big holds and manky tats.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A great route. Really quite qirty at present, it needs more climbers and less spiders. Don't remember a 'series of unhelpful pockets', just big holds and manky tats.

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 20
High 6a
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High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 19
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Dangler

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Stanage Popular)
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