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USER ATTENTION
Advisory notice: Crows (most probably jackdaws) are reported to be nesting in the Graveyard area. Staying off routes/problems in this area will avoid possible disturbance.
Now owned by the BMC, this disused quarry has been dedicated as Open Access Land under the CRoW Act. A few things to consider when climbing at this crag:
- Whilst generally good quality gritstone, there is potential for loose rock given the site is a former quarry, where blasting techniques were used to remove rock and ongoing weathering could also loosen rock over time (as with any other crag).
- Consider wearing a helmet when climbing in the quarry.
- Some routes in the quarry feature fixed equipment such as pegs, stuck trad gear, belay stakes and even a few bolts. Fixed equipment should always be treated with caution and it is up to each climber to make a judgement call whether they think it is reliable. Consider backing up fixed equipment with your own gear wherever possible.
If you're able to lend a hand on the cleanup sessions, someone on the 'Lancashire Rock Revival' group will point you in the right direction: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1566324270279682
Rockfax Description
Bold and absorbing - a great route when dry and clean! Climb straight up the face to the horizontal break, fill it with gear then trend slightly rightwards up the wall, passing an overlap with difficulty, to a finish through the blocky overhangs on the right. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The direct line skirting WSB is fantastic even by Wilton One standards, never desperate nor serious but continually interesting and committing. Brilliant moves to and past the twin pegs gain the flake of WSB and thus the break. Continue direct, peg, to the useful flake and make delicate moves into the scoop. Escape rightwards onto ledges and the final juggy finish to the best belay seat in the quarry.
FA. Ian Lonsdale 1977 Hank Pasquill (the start) 1978.
Ticklists
Lancashire's Finest , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Ultimate E4 ticklist , Wilton wanderers , Definitive *** Lancs Grit
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| a pedley | 23 May, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Superb, not massively strenuous technical sections | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Superb, not massively strenuous technical sections |
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| Andy Stewart2 | 23 May, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Great route, the whole wall was bone dry in early season drought conditions! Seems to seep and stay wet for ages in previous years. Feels runout higher up, but the climbing is steady. Did some minimal gardening on ascent while being blinded by windblown debris from Ade gardening the adjacent route. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Great route, the whole wall was bone dry in early season drought conditions! Seems to seep and stay wet for ages in previous years. Feels runout higher up, but the climbing is steady. Did some minimal gardening on ascent while being blinded by windblown debris from Ade gardening the adjacent route. |
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| datoon | 14 Aug, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Remember to clip the peg after the break - feels a tad more exposed without this!?! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Remember to clip the peg after the break - feels a tad more exposed without this!?! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Wilton 1
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Bob Hope
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Dovestones Quarry)