USER ATTENTION
Advisory notice: Crows (most probably jackdaws) are reported to be nesting in the Graveyard area. Staying off routes/problems in this area will avoid possible disturbance.
Now owned by the BMC, this disused quarry has been dedicated as Open Access Land under the CRoW Act. A few things to consider when climbing at this crag:
If you're able to lend a hand on the cleanup sessions, someone on the 'Lancashire Rock Revival' group will point you in the right direction: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1566324270279682
Rockfax Description
A devious classic - the name refers to a back flip in aerobatics and is not Cockney rhyming slang! Clipping and passing the second peg is desperate for the short! Climb round the overlap to the main horizontal break, step right then climb straight up the wall into a shallow groove. Finish through the blocky overhanging groove capping the face. Straightening out the loop is White Lightening E5 6b. © Rockfax
FA. Hank Pasquill (2 pegs) 1967 FFA Hank Pasquill 1971.
Lancashire's Finest , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Definitive *** Lancs Grit
User | Date | Notes | ||
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datoon | 14 Aug, 2007 |
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βeta: I'm not sure how double bolt belays would do anything - the moves through the overhang are a nice way to finish the climb. Well worthy of 3 stars... | βeta? | |
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βeta: I'm not sure how double bolt belays would do anything - the moves through the overhang are a nice way to finish the climb. Well worthy of 3 stars... |
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Fiend | 20 Sep, 2006 |
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βeta: A substantial, impressive and rewarding outing. Some good and very committing moves, rarely with the protection where you want it. Clipping the second peg is cruel for the short, as is reaching the ledge. The finish is fairly memorable too, and the top-out is fine. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A substantial, impressive and rewarding outing. Some good and very committing moves, rarely with the protection where you want it. Clipping the second peg is cruel for the short, as is reaching the ledge. The finish is fairly memorable too, and the top-out is fine. |
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mrjsenior | 23 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: Lower peg seriously deteriorated and in need of replacing, making the crux (between the pegs) very committing. Second peg tough to clip if short. Overall, very little in the way of dependable gear. Some good moves but not worthy of 3* - stick to Supercrack or Max at the grade. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Lower peg seriously deteriorated and in need of replacing, making the crux (between the pegs) very committing. Second peg tough to clip if short. Overall, very little in the way of dependable gear. Some good moves but not worthy of 3* - stick to Supercrack or Max at the grade. |
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salancaster | 28 Jan, 2003 |
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βeta: Great route just like Isle of White, committing to the finish was the crux for me. OK once you do it! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great route just like Isle of White, committing to the finish was the crux for me. OK once you do it! |
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mark hounslea | 22 Sep, 2002 |
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βeta: A serious start ,the move to clip the second peg probably being the crux | βeta? | |
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βeta: A serious start ,the move to clip the second peg probably being the crux |
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(Wilton 1)