UKC

Restricted Access

Wilton 3 is owned by Bolton Gun Club with agreed times for shooting and climbing - live firing takes place and it is vital that climbers understand and follow the agreed access arrangements. A new approach has recently been agreed – please see the ‘access’ section below for details as the old approach through the front gate is no longer possible.

Climbers have priority on Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. Shooters have priority on Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays and if shooting, red flags will be flying around the top of the quarry as well as on the approach.

On shooting days when the red warning flags are not in place, climbers can access the quarries, but if shooters arrive later, please pack up and leave as soon as safely possible. Please try to avoid the temptation of assuming that the ranges are not being used until at least mid-afternoon. On days when climbers have priority, the shooters can use the sites if climbers are not present when they arrive. However, if climbers arrive shooting must stop. If shooting is taking place on a climbing day, enter the quarry using the route detailed in the ‘access’ section below and approach the shooters hut along the newly landscaped path (which takes you safely behind the line of fire). Politely ask the shooters to stop and allow them a reasonable amount of time to clear up.

Climbers have an additional day in Wilton 3 on Mondays compared to Wilton 2 & 4. If the neighbouring gun club are using Wilton 2 but Wilton 3 is not being used, climbers can still use Wilton 3, provided that they do not climb the routes on Orange Wall (i.e. routes between Twin Cracks and Orange Corner inclusive). On these days, climbers must not pass the fence on the ridge between Wilton 2 and 3 or descend past it.

12m.

Rockfax Description
A seductive line right of the corner is started on the left and has a crucial mantelshelf to pass the mid-height bulge. © Rockfax

FA. Rowland Edwards 1963.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Definitive *** Lancs Grit

Feedback

User Date Notes
C Witter 25 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: A really eye-catching line...! From a distance, it looks really improbable at the grade. I've wanted to this route for a long time, but hadn't been to Wilton 3 for years. It's definitely worth 5a; maybe worth HVS, but it's mostly one tricky move and all well-protected with cams. Lovely climb; one of the best VSs in all the Wiltons.
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βeta: A really eye-catching line...! From a distance, it looks really improbable at the grade. I've wanted to this route for a long time, but hadn't been to Wilton 3 for years. It's definitely worth 5a; maybe worth HVS, but it's mostly one tricky move and all well-protected with cams. Lovely climb; one of the best VSs in all the Wiltons.
gcombe 5 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Current guidebook gives this VS 4c ***
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βeta: Current guidebook gives this VS 4c ***
Kyuzo 6 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Slipped off this one when it was wet, make sure you get some good gear in before you commit to the upper section of the crack!
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βeta: Slipped off this one when it was wet, make sure you get some good gear in before you commit to the upper section of the crack!
Pekkie 14 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Agreed, a great route with a well-protected strenuous crux
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βeta: Agreed, a great route with a well-protected strenuous crux

Logged Ascents

655 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Wilton 3

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 58 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 86
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 84
Votes cast 77
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Cherry Bomb

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Egerton Quarry)

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