UKC

Restricted Access

The landowners have requested no more bolting or group use in the West Quarry.

User attention

The landowner has temporarily closed off access to the western part of the crag while they investigate reports of geological instability. They have stated that this closure is currently temporary and will be updating the BMC once the investigation has taken place. In the meantime please do not access or climb here. The coastgaurd has indicated that given the potentialy dangerous condition of the crag they would not send in rescuers should an emergency arise whilst thie closure is in place. from 18/04/2023

Direct start up the arete to the right of Beavis and Butthead to join it at its third bolt. Boulder style moves up the cliff's arete and not the boulders or earth mound. Use a long (1m) sling on the third bolt to protect the start. Avoids the loose corner start.

J Kimber, C Parker 25/Feb/2022.

Ticklists

Swanage Sport Routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
RaRaTheTiger 28 Feb, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Thanks, will check out the new direct start next time I'm down
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Thanks, will check out the new direct start next time I'm down
JIMBO 27 Feb, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Don't know why the tape was on the first bolt. Seemed more solid than it looks. Right hand variant was just for giggles
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Don't know why the tape was on the first bolt. Seemed more solid than it looks. Right hand variant was just for giggles
RaRaTheTiger 27 Feb, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: 'Avoids the loose corner start' - is this why the first bolt of the original line is currently marked with a piece of climbers tape?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 'Avoids the loose corner start' - is this why the first bolt of the original line is currently marked with a piece of climbers tape?

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Winspit

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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Stalker's Zone

Grade: 6a+ ***
(Wallsend South)

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