Rockfax Description
The right-hand line of the lower wall is another terrific face-climb. Start below ledges and a left-leaning corner under an overhang. Climb the gently overhanging wall on positive holds and finish up a flake-crack in the headwall. Stunning. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 30.4.89 30/Apr/1989

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, West Country Climbs, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Orange Spot Portland, The best 50 UK "Orange Spot" Sports Routes?, Portland 3 stars grades 6 and below, Portland sub 6b, Portland.

Hidden 01/Nov/16 Lead rpt
Anna Maykova 28/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Ian
Ian MK 28/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Anna
Hidden 02/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Curly Rich 24/Sep/16 Lead dog

One rest in the middle. Quite nervous after not climbing for a while.

with gmc
Hidden 24/Sep/16 Lead
cdpuk 18/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Rob Scarisbrick, Chris Mooney
Hidden 18/Sep/16 TR β
Alasdair88 18/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Gingerlings 18/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 15/Sep/16 Lead O/S
gem_stone12 14/Sep/16 Lead
Widda 31/Jul/16 2nd rpt

Finally got through the bottom crux without pumping out! Was terrified of throwing it through the top section of lovely climbing.

chris_woodsy 31/Jul/16 Lead
with Widdaz
joese7en 24/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Dean177 17/Jul/16 Lead O/S

There is a big seagul nest at the top.

with Ana_B
tyho 16/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Harry
Paul Hicks 16/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Fiona Marlow
Dizz 16/Jul/16 Lead RP

Was wet first trip up - much easier once dry!

with Chris mooney
Tomas P 26/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Aelita
Hidden 25/Jun/16 Lead O/S
brian watson 18/Jun/16 Lead rpt
with Mike
richy85 05/Jun/16 2nd O/S
with Paul, George
professorcobra 02/Jun/16 Lead O/S
David Staples 07/May/16 Lead rpt
spidey 07/May/16 Lead O/S
with Daryl
druss 01/May/16 Lead O/S

Very good varied climb that felt hard for the grade.

poeter210 01/May/16 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/May/16 -
Dan 85 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Jack
JackMac 30/Apr/16 Lead rpt
with Dan 85
Widda 24/Apr/16 Lead dnf

Sussed the moves first on top rope (2xrest). Bit of an epic ending in a fall above ledge no.3 and an ankle too sore to finish it - so frustrating! Will be back as soon as possible - love this climb!

chris_woodsy 24/Apr/16 2nd
with Widdaz
BenL 23/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Lisa
Vince 17/Apr/16 Lead rpt
with Jus
Jus 17/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Nick Russell 16/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Fantastic route - best of it's grade I've been on?

with Emily
Emily 16/Apr/16 Lead β

Probably the best piece of climbing I've ever done. Cold hands, nasty split in one fingertip, and pretty scared, but I kept going and managed to finish it! The holds were all just good enough. I did take several goes to get off the ledge near the second clip but avoided weighting the rope so I'll award myself the flash. Think the cold hands actually helped: I was forced to seek out every possible resting position so as to stuff my hands up my fleece for a few seconds!

with Nick
Glyn 12/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Amy
Amy UT 12/Apr/16 Lead β
with Glyn
Widda 19/Mar/16 TR dog

Probably the most I've ever enjoyed a climb. Two falls - unfinished business for sure!

chris_woodsy 19/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Widdaz
Hidden ??/2016 -
Robmwatt 26/Sep/15 Lead
Martin Bagshaw 05/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Tom Hudson, Catherine Smith
Katsmiff 05/Sep/15 TR O/S

Fine. Nice climb.

Hidden 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S
elliptic 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Tash K.
chris_woodsy 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S
tash 15/Aug/15 Lead rpt

Good route - nice warm up

with Chris T
philhaigh 06/Aug/15 Lead rpt
with Sophie Nunn, Ed Babs, Shamina Kapadia
Hidden 02/Aug/15 Lead dnf
Luke Owens 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Best of it's grade in the UK? Amazing route!

samparsons 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Emmie
FlavioL1989 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Super 30m route. Changing clothes and putting a bright green helmet seemed to have calmed the seagull down.

David Staples 07/Jul/15 Lead rpt
Mark Chevassut 17/Jun/15 Lead O/S

watch out for seagulls!

Ellie Rymer 17/Jun/15 2nd β
Hidden 05/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/15 TR O/S
David Staples 04/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Tough warm up. Didn't see the seagul nest on the ledge and knocked out an egg! Seagul was pissed off to say the least. Sorry mate. Cracking route otherwise.

tash 16/May/15 Lead O/S
with ali k
Hidden 10/May/15 Lead dog
Steph Roberts 19/Apr/15 TR O/S
with Rob Gates, Sam
R2B 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Climb
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
chudders1 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
JackMac 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Great route.

with Clive, Darren, Russ
ReubenS1990 ?/Apr/15 Lead dog
Bristoldave 18/Jan/15 Lead O/S
with Derwood
dbrooks 18/Jan/15 Lead O/S

Warm up, one of the best 6a+ on Portland?

with Dr Dave
kingborris ??/2015 -
roberts1234567890 04/Oct/14 Lead
Hidden 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Sep/14 Lead β
Rockmonkey1977 13/Sep/14 Lead β

A climb of several different parts, very nice.

nacnud 24/Aug/14 Lead
Sam4242 22/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Vince 16/Aug/14 Lead rpt
with Eric Pieuchot
Renna Clifford 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Nice crux-less yet sustained climbing, good warm up route which gets a bit pumpy towards the top

Rosea Day 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/14 Lead dnf
Vince 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Eric Pieuchot
Gem Minihan 22/Jul/14 Lead dog
MichaelConstantinou 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 29/Jun/14 Lead rpt
drcorbasisgod 17/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Nesting seagulls!

leonr23 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Currently has a nesting seagull just below the anchor which can be avoided by going right, but it will still get angry. Started divebombing another climber. Nice climb though.

brices 25/May/14 Lead O/S


with Llinos, Gav
Lee_Meaden 05/May/14 Lead O/S
funsized 03/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Macca_7 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Nice route with some good climbing and fairly consistent throughout. Nice headwall!

Peter Lovell 05/Oct/13 Lead β
LucasHarazin 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
3 Names 21/Sep/13 Lead rpt
dprctr 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/13 Lead O/S
jas128 20/Sep/13 TR β
Graham Westbrook 16/Sep/13 Lead β
maybe_si 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Ali 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/13 Lead rpt
redjerry 22/Aug/13 TR O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/13 2nd
Dan_Carroll 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Iain
Hidden 04/Aug/13 Lead O/S
philmcf ?/Aug/13 Lead dog
philmcf ?/Aug/13 TR rpt
Ian Bell 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Jay-Ast 20/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Rosyk
Rosyk 20/Jun/13 2nd O/S
julesmckim 16/Jun/13 Lead dog
with Alex Renshaw
AlexRenshaw 15/Jun/13 Lead
Alex_RhodesUK 06/Jun/13 TR dog
Stanners 06/Jun/13 Lead O/S

another amazing portland classic in glorious sun -Jumped in sea after to cool off!

with Alex Rhodes
Marti999 04/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Debbie
nataliehaigh 01/Jun/13 2nd dog
with Mike Gubbins, Phil Haigh
Adam Booth 26/May/13 Lead O/S
Ellen Cobby 26/May/13 2nd dog
3 Names 25/May/13 Lead O/S
with Nick
Hidden 25/May/13 Lead O/S
lewiz 18/May/13 Lead O/S
Pete Dangerous 18/May/13 Lead RP
with lewiz
Hidden 18/May/13 Lead
Hidden 18/May/13 Lead rpt
littleluke 05/May/13 -
dan gibson 25/Apr/13 Lead rpt
with jacquie robinson
Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead β
Helen Gibson 30/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with Paul
Hidden 30/Sep/12 Lead
Paul_southgate68 20/Sep/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Paul_southgate68 06/Sep/12 Lead O/S

So good I did it twice!

Rupey 06/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with alan
rustyfishhook 06/Sep/12 TR O/S

I discovered this route in 2003ish, I left climbing due to an ongoing illness. Now many years later I'm back and payed this little beauty a visit! BEAUTIFUL! Good rock and great shapes!

Trippinjester 06/Sep/12 TR O/S
Hidden 02/Sep/12 Lead O/S
gibsond 02/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Not good conditions. Very greasy on the lower section, but still a great route.

Hidden 31/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Daniel 20/Aug/12 Lead
with Jasmina Saric
lucachitara 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S

beautiful climbing, incredible crack section at the top.

BeccaSnowden 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Very very good

CRiddiford 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Becca
Jake Young 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S

The only thing i got up clean all day, trashed from previous days climbing.

with Mike
Dibdawg 25/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Pete Clark
Hidden 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Jaime Mitchell 30/Jun/12 2nd dog
Hidden 30/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Adam Booth 22/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Ellen Cobby 22/Jun/12 2nd dog
Marti999 01/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Paul Hayes
Julie Carroll 01/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Helen Gibson
Alex Norman 31/May/12 Lead β
philhaigh 26/May/12 Lead rpt
nataliehaigh 26/May/12 2nd O/S
yarrow 21/May/12 Lead O/S
with Mark C, Laurence Everitt
Laurence Everitt 20/May/12 Lead O/S
Harry Thorpe 20/May/12 Lead O/S
will black ?/May/12 Lead O/S
GarethHall 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
matt_read 08/Jan/12 Lead O/S

Nice route......nice new shoes!

Hidden 07/Jan/12 Lead O/S
paultaylor 07/Jan/12 Lead
with Grant, maffer the faffer
matt perks ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
PAJames ??/2012 -
Tommyads ??/2012 -

Best 6a+ I can think of.

phillipwright ??/2012 Lead O/S
with James Kingswood
tombrol ??/2012 Lead RP
with Kasia Maruszak
MarkRyder 23/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Ivan M
julesmckim 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S

All got up it in the dying light!

with dave lewis, Mickie Streule
PeterDawson 20/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Danny Crump 15/Oct/11 Lead
catt 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Frickin awesome.

with Hazel
Hidden 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
ThomasB ?/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Luke Dawson 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
dan gibson 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with anna barnes
Hidden 04/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Linc 31/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Marti999 29/Aug/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
robajob 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
clipskipper 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Good clean fun, but a little damp on the day

with Dave A
Hidden 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/11 TR O/S
cooperman 12/Aug/11 Lead RP
with Greg Foster
Hidden 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
alan rosier 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Lloyders ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Misha 14/May/11 Lead O/S

Nice route but felt hard for the grade.

with Phil
philhilo 14/May/11 Lead O/S

Hard at the grade.

with misha
dale1968 02/May/11 2nd dog

rain thunder and lightening made for exciting climbing, great route3* (lower bolt now in place)

with Tom
Hidden 27/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 14/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with CC meet
Abi Chard 14/Mar/11 Lead dog
AlexD 04/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Every hold is a jug!

with Roger
Ed Babs 21/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Mike Hawkins
slav ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
jamespilgrim 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Mark
thomasmouse 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/10 Lead
natalietanzer 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with marcus
Allan Watson 31/May/10 Lead O/S
with maxpie
vertigo 22/May/10 Lead O/S

Really good route for the grade. Noisy bird on the ledge at the top was the only distraction.

La benya 15/May/10 Lead O/S
philhaigh 26/Apr/10 Lead O/S
tommytuffa 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with tomar
Pete Scott 30/Jan/10 Lead O/S
Jane Weir ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
KDhruev 11/Oct/09 Lead rpt
Alex More 11/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with keiha
The Jazz Butcher 20/Sep/09 Lead rpt
with Giles
Dandan82 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with harry massey
Hidden 29/Aug/09 Lead RP
steve taylor 29/Aug/09 Lead rpt
with Trev Ford
Hidden 16/Aug/09 Solo O/S
mynameisjen 16/Aug/09 Lead dog
w.pettet-smith 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S

the first bolt is stupidly high- did a lower one fall off? lots of evidencde of rock fall in the vacinity.

eroica64 02/Aug/09 TR O/S

Brilliant moves and fairly sustained with terrific top wall/slab.

with Audrey Morrison
jacobjlloyd 04/Jul/09 Lead β
with Ivan
steve taylor 10/May/09 -
with Steve Williams
Hidden 02/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/09 Lead O/S
garburn 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Nils
Hidden 22/Mar/09 Lead β
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
La Mont ??/2009 -
Hidden 10/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 17/Sep/08 Lead dog

slipped at the start.

with Matt
Matt Bennett 17/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 14/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Matic
feilx 14/Sep/08 Lead rpt
with Heather
trev_f 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Andy
Andrew Barker 12/Aug/08 Lead β
with Matt Booth
Hidden 01/Jun/08 Lead O/S
tonanf ?/Nov/07 AltLd RP
with Pep
simonf 11/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Chris
tobydunford 28/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/07 -
Owen W-G 07/Jul/07 Lead O/S

Angry gull with nest and chicks on ledge near top. Got dive bombed with puke and guano. Just about managed to cling on to get to the top.

with Max
Scott N ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
feilx 26/May/07 Lead O/S
theloringharvey ?/May/07 Lead O/S
with Jon Partridge
steve taylor 28/Apr/07 Lead
with ouzo john
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Oliver Sherman 21/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with Paul Raine, John Eales
bigie bob 30/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 17/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Lee Bartrop
chris sm 16/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
finchelata 06/Aug/06 TR O/S
with Yvan
davewing 26/Apr/06 TR
with Mick
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
feeko ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
michael burrows 04/Oct/05 Lead
Richard Horn ??/2005 Lead O/S
The Jazz Butcher ??/2004 -
Hidden 09/Sep/03 Lead O/S
just one more 15/Sep/02 Lead
with tim b, Svenn G
Rock Fairy ?/Jun/02 2nd
with david
goi.ashmore 10/Apr/02 Lead O/S
with Andy Howe
Dave Musgrove ?/Apr/02 Lead O/S
with Nigel Baker
Hidden ?/May/01 Lead O/S
The Jazz Butcher ??/2001 -
John Southworth ??/2001 -
Hidden 27/Jun/00 Lead O/S
duncan 20/May/00 Lead O/S
with Phillipe
Robmwatt ??/2000 Lead
Paul Clarke ??/2000 Lead
with .
Hidden 26/Mar/99 Lead
Kevster 21/Jun/98 Lead RP
Steve Crowe 15/Mar/98 Lead O/S
with KM
Hidden 10/Apr/96 AltLd
Hidden ?/Oct/95 Lead O/S
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High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 71
Votes cast 65
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set