UKC

Restricted Access

The landowners have requested no more bolting or group use in the West Quarry.

User attention

The landowner has temporarily closed off access to the western part of the crag while they investigate reports of geological instability. They have stated that this closure is currently temporary and will be updating the BMC once the investigation has taken place. In the meantime please do not access or climb here. The coastgaurd has indicated that given the potentialy dangerous condition of the crag they would not send in rescuers should an emergency arise whilst thie closure is in place. from 18/04/2023

20m.

Rockfax Description
An entertaining, big and burly roof climb starting from the right-hand pile of boulders in the centre of the cave. A good knee-bar above the large roof gives a quick hands-off rest. The first bolt might need to be stick-clipped by the short. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 05/Jun/1994.

Ticklists

Winspit apprenticeship , Winspit Sport Climbs , South Side Sport , Winspit Sport Climbs , Swanage Sport Routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
brian watson 28 Mar, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Foot hold missing from above lip of roof, making knee bar more difficult.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Foot hold missing from above lip of roof, making knee bar more difficult.
samparsons 8 Nov, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Beta Video: https://youtu.be/O4j4XLmybm4
Show beta
βeta: Beta Video: https://youtu.be/O4j4XLmybm4
Richard Horn 13 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: The clip is easiest from a foot lock in the crack above the roof - although this method is potentially also the scariest!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The clip is easiest from a foot lock in the crack above the roof - although this method is potentially also the scariest!
JIMBO 11 Dec, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: The clip over the roof is hard to make if short. Either climb past it before clipping or tape a long extender down closer and in reach...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The clip over the roof is hard to make if short. Either climb past it before clipping or tape a long extender down closer and in reach...

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 18
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Seriously Slim Fast Motel

Grade: 7c ***
(Dancing Ledge)

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