The landowners have requested no more bolting or group use in the West Quarry.
User attention
The landowner has temporarily closed off access to the western part of the crag while they investigate reports of geological instability. They have stated that this closure is currently temporary and will be updating the BMC once the investigation has taken place. In the meantime please do not access or climb here. The coastgaurd has indicated that given the potentialy dangerous condition of the crag they would not send in rescuers should an emergency arise whilst thie closure is in place. from 18/04/2023
Rockfax Description
A good power pitch. Start as for Lunacy Booth and make hard boulder moves left (Petzl bolts) up to a good sidepull. Power your way up and through the roof of Lunacy Booth but take the right-hand line of bolts in the groove. One last hard pull leads to good 'dinner plates' and easier ground above. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A good power pitch. Start on the same pile of rocks as Lunacy Booth and make hard boulder moves left (Petzl bolts) up to a good sidepull. Power your way up and through the roof of Lunacy Booth but take the right-hand line of bolts in the groove. One last hard pull leads to good 'dinner plates' and easier ground above.
FA. Philip Belcher. Bolted by Pete Oxley 2014.
Winspit Sport Climbs , South Side Sport , Winspit Sport Climbs , Swanage Sport Routes
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Grade: 7c ***
(Dancing Ledge)