The landowners have requested no more bolting or group use in the West Quarry.
User attention
The landowner has temporarily closed off access to the western part of the crag while they investigate reports of geological instability. They have stated that this closure is currently temporary and will be updating the BMC once the investigation has taken place. In the meantime please do not access or climb here. The coastgaurd has indicated that given the potentialy dangerous condition of the crag they would not send in rescuers should an emergency arise whilst thie closure is in place. from 18/04/2023
Rockfax Description
Climb the central pillar, moving right to a lower-off. Unstable. © Rockfax
FA. Stephen Woods 2003.
Winspit Sport Climbs , Winspit Sport Climbs , Swanage Sport Routes
User | Date | Notes | ||
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thehonestwanderer | 20 Aug, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Easier for a shorter climber for sure. The gap between the main shelf and the roof is easier to rest on with short limbs. Rest before stepping the right foot out onto the west facing wall to save your arms for the laid back moves. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Easier for a shorter climber for sure. The gap between the main shelf and the roof is easier to rest on with short limbs. Rest before stepping the right foot out onto the west facing wall to save your arms for the laid back moves. |
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treesrockice | 18 Feb, 2018 |
Show βeta
βeta: NOW UNSTABLE !!!!!!!!!! Chest sized block detatched!!!!!!! Lead the route leaving the draws in for my partner to climb afterwards. Using slightly different beta he climbed to about the height of the lip of the cave, at which point he pulled on a block a little before the first clip which detached. Managed to half catch him and get both of us out the way safely although the block landed on my rope mashing 15-20m of it. It is possible that this block was supporting others above it so the entire start of the route may now be compromised. Would be good if someone who knows more about rock quality could confirm. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: NOW UNSTABLE !!!!!!!!!! Chest sized block detatched!!!!!!! Lead the route leaving the draws in for my partner to climb afterwards. Using slightly different beta he climbed to about the height of the lip of the cave, at which point he pulled on a block a little before the first clip which detached. Managed to half catch him and get both of us out the way safely although the block landed on my rope mashing 15-20m of it. It is possible that this block was supporting others above it so the entire start of the route may now be compromised. Would be good if someone who knows more about rock quality could confirm. |
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Alex More | 29 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Is it safe to climb? | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Is it safe to climb? |
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Grade: 6a+ ***
(Blacknor Central)