UKC

40m. One of the best pitches on the lower wall. Start as for Big Fly Direct and traverse into the niche. Climb up on its left to a ledge and then diagonally left to the break. Travese left in this (peg runner above) almost to the end almost to the end of the slab and climb the small overhang (whip lash, peg not clipped). Traverse 10 feet back right in a thin break (peg runner directly above the first) and stand on a ledge. Climb diagonally right to good pockets below the overhangs. Move right and go up to reach holds over the lip. Step back left to go over at two slots, and climb directly up the cracks past a peg runner to the terrace. Find the best tree (or peg on the right) to abseil off, or continue up Big Fly Direct or one of the harder pitches to the right.

Ticklists

Wye Valley Starred E1-E3

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User Date Notes
Summit Sense 13 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Evidence of rockfall scars in the mid setion after the two pegs. Might be worth an abseil inspection?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Evidence of rockfall scars in the mid setion after the two pegs. Might be worth an abseil inspection?

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High E3
Mid E3
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High E2
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Low E2
High E1
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High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
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High 5a
Mid 5a
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Victorian Falls

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Nailbridge)

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