38m.
Start just to the left of Whatever the Weatherley on top of a huge pile of ivy in the big cave.
Pitch descriptions:
Climb the dusty red rib for a couple of metres until a short traverse left gains an old peg and thread (belonging to some long forgotten route, I don’t know which). Now climb up the rib above on interesting holds avoiding the poorer rock to the right. Next move up with good gear to a horizontal slot. Taking care with the rock, pull up under the roof and bridge right, 2 pegs. Now pull up to the right over the lip, peg, and make a short traverse right along the break to join up with Whatever the Weatherley. Finish as for Whatever the Weatherley.
Additional info:
Route was cleaned on abseil then lead climbed. All gear was placed on the lead apart from the three pegs on the overhang. The starting peg and thread were already there and belong to some old route, they were buried under ivy,soil, earth and brambles.
Pitch descriptions:
Climb the dusty red rib for a couple of metres until a short traverse left gains an old peg and thread (belonging to some long forgotten route, I don’t know which). Now climb up the rib above on interesting holds avoiding the poorer rock to the right. Next move up with good gear to a horizontal slot. Taking care with the rock, pull up under the roof and bridge right, 2 pegs. Now pull up to the right over the lip, peg, and make a short traverse right along the break to join up with Whatever the Weatherley. Finish as for Whatever the Weatherley.
Additional info:
Route was cleaned on abseil then lead climbed. All gear was placed on the lead apart from the three pegs on the overhang. The starting peg and thread were already there and belong to some old route, they were buried under ivy,soil, earth and brambles.
Gavin Cytlau and Paul Southgate 23/Aug/2014.
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Route of Interest
Firefly
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Wintour's Leap)