UKC

A harrowing and slightly contrived direct variant between Nightmare of Brown Sugar and Devils Trousers. Pull up the cable as for Nightmare... and then trend right to tackle the 'brown sugar' overhang direct with dubious rock and protection to rejoin Nightmare through the first roof. Clip the thread on Devil's Trousers, then step back left to the big sidepull and climb through the roof direct at the white patch, past small crimps and a big lefthand undercut to the break. Step right to another big undercut, then make one last hard move off opposing sidepulls to the finishing jug next to the bolt-belay. A slightly contrived route taking the line of most resistance, but great climbing all the same!

Mike Goldthorp 19/Feb/2014.

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Route of Interest
The Jackal

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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