15m. Location - Small Wall is reached by following the guide book description for Narcotic Corner & 'Suicide is Dangerous'. From the Beech tree in front of Suicide, descend 3 metres to the multi stemmed tree, then traverse left (facing out) until under Small Wall. 'One For Button' takes an independent line through the break in the overhang to the left of 'Under a Raging Moon' (see guidebook)
Description - Start where the rock has been cleaned in the centre of the wall, then traverse slightly left and straight up through several horizontal breaks to the thread. Move up (good friend placement), before reaching for a good pocket. Pull through with a long reach to another small finger pocket directly above, then stretch out right (good friend) for a good hold(s). High step onto the upper wall for more good holds, protection and a rest. Climb the delightful technical wall above (peg) with a few difficult, thin moves and eventual slap to the ledge. (easier for those with a long reach). Abseil station now in place on the ledge. (A Second ascent awaits !! )
Additional info - Small Wall has been extensively cleaned, as has four of the existing routes in the guidebook. Three of these routes have also had their original threads replaced.
'Under a Raging Moon' (E2 5c) deserves a star. There is a second abseil station now in place for this route and the adjacent route 'Northerners Can't Climb' (E1 5b).
'Amoeba' (E1 5a) and 'Tiswas' (HS 4b) have been cleaned and compliment the other 3 routes.

Mike Hope / Peter Williams 19/Apr/2017.

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Wye Valley Starred E1-E3

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