Pitch grades 5b,5b,5b,6a,5a.
P1 King Kong pitch 1 to belay on the big ledge.
P2 Climb the short grove in the right arete then grovel right round the arete to stand on the ledge. Drop back down and traverse right on good holds to belay in the upper chimney of Kangeroo Wall.
P3 Traverse right for about 13m to belay below a pocketted crack.
P4 Make a few stiff pulls up the pocketted crack and cracked pillar to a rest in a scoop. Arrange lots of gear then pull out left and climb the bold wall above to a roof. Fiddle in poor gear then pull over the detached looking roof onto a mud bank.


Ultimate E3 ticklist , The Local Ticklist , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs


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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 8
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Brain Smasher

Grade: E3 6a ***
(Coaley Wood Crag)

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