Pitch grades 5b,5b,5b,6a,5a.
P1 King Kong pitch 1 to belay on the big ledge.
P2 Climb the short grove in the right arete then grovel right round the arete to stand on the ledge. Drop back down and traverse right on good holds to belay in the upper chimney of Kangeroo Wall.
P3 Traverse right for about 13m to belay below a pocketted crack.
P4 Make a few stiff pulls up the pocketted crack and cracked pillar to a rest in a scoop. Arrange lots of gear then pull out left and climb the bold wall above to a roof. Fiddle in poor gear then pull over the detached looking roof onto a mud bank.
P5
P1 King Kong pitch 1 to belay on the big ledge.
P2 Climb the short grove in the right arete then grovel right round the arete to stand on the ledge. Drop back down and traverse right on good holds to belay in the upper chimney of Kangeroo Wall.
P3 Traverse right for about 13m to belay below a pocketted crack.
P4 Make a few stiff pulls up the pocketted crack and cracked pillar to a rest in a scoop. Arrange lots of gear then pull out left and climb the bold wall above to a roof. Fiddle in poor gear then pull over the detached looking roof onto a mud bank.
P5
Ticklists
Ultimate E3 ticklist , The Local Ticklist , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , Wye Valley Starred E1-E3
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Route of Interest
Brain Smasher
Grade: E3 6a ***
(Coaley Wood Crag)