UKC

Restricted Access

Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.

GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.

North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made. 

All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.

Peregrines nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pitches of Left Hand Route (from the great ledge)

 

NOTICE: 30th April 2024 - Peregrines have been reported to be nesting on King King. Please avoid this area of the crag. It is likely that the crag restriction will be amended once it is confirmed if this is North Wall pair, or an additional pair.

Pitch grades 5b,5b,5b,6a,5a.
P1 King Kong pitch 1 to belay on the big ledge.
P2 Climb the short grove in the right arete then grovel right round the arete to stand on the ledge. Drop back down and traverse right on good holds to belay in the upper chimney of Kangeroo Wall.
P3 Traverse right for about 13m to belay below a pocketted crack.
P4 Make a few stiff pulls up the pocketted crack and cracked pillar to a rest in a scoop. Arrange lots of gear then pull out left and climb the bold wall above to a roof. Fiddle in poor gear then pull over the detached looking roof onto a mud bank.
P5

Ticklists

Ultimate E3 ticklist , The Local Ticklist , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , Wye Valley Starred E1-E3

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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Wintour's Leap

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 8
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Cotswold Way

Grade: E3 6a ***
(Coaley Wood Crag)

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