UKC

38m. A few metres to the left of Loan Shark is a large cave. Start in the centre of the cave.

From the cave floor mantle up onto the dusty ledge on the right. Traverse right along the ledge to the arete, a thin crack and the first gear. Move up the rib to a peg. Now using caution, move up and left through a patch of poor rock, and attain a bridged position above the apex of the cave. Now move over the roof past an old flattened staple bolt. Continue over more steep rock to an easing under a final overhang (keeping to the right of VapourWare). Pull over the final roof keeping away from the line of flattened staple bolts to the right (Foot in Mouth?). The climb now joins VapourWare after its flake crack and finishes at its two bolt belay.

Route was cleaned on abseil then lead climbed with all protection placed on the lead apart from the peg. None of the old flattened staple bolts in close proximity to the climb were used but they could be threaded. Plenty of natural gear.

Gavin Cytlau, Georgie Weatherley. 09/Aug/2014.

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Firefly

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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