Restricted Access
One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.
Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 February to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"
Rockfax Description
Make a difficult move up to and then onto a ledge. Finish up the right-hand side of the arete. The lower-off is on the top ledge over to the left. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
From CC Guide
Ticklists
CoT Wye Valley Mileage #C2K , Wye Valley Sport
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Steven_Cousins | 8 Apr, 2023 |
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βeta: Extremely polished start that I didn't even manage to get past ? | βeta? | |
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βeta: Extremely polished start that I didn't even manage to get past ? |
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| Hayley_Milne | 8 Oct, 2022 |
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βeta: Very polished and tops out under a very spiky holly bush which will bite. Ouch. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very polished and tops out under a very spiky holly bush which will bite. Ouch. |
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| EleMiniWoolley | 2 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: Significant polishing for the first half of the climb, very difficult start for short people on lead climb | βeta? | |
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βeta: Significant polishing for the first half of the climb, very difficult start for short people on lead climb |
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| simoncov | 30 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: Pre-clipping the first bolt is advised because the initial footholds are polished to a high sheen. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Pre-clipping the first bolt is advised because the initial footholds are polished to a high sheen. |
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| Dickie91 | 1 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: Watch out for the angry Holly | βeta? | |
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βeta: Watch out for the angry Holly |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Wyndcliff Quarry
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