UKC Logbook - 'Shin Gi Tai'

16m.

Rockfax Description
The wall and short thin crack to the right of Bodger Bob give an equally good pitch to its fine trad neighbour. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Bolted direct version of SGT, starting between Bogger Bob and SGT's original start. Possibly retro-bolts the start of Hong Kong Garden.

27/8/18 - the nut on the top bolt is loose.

Gordon Jenkin 15/May/2011.

Ticklists

CoT Wye Valley Mileage #C2K , Road to f7c - Wye Valley , 6Bs with stars near Bristol , High in the grade near Bristol , Wyndcliff Quarry Sport Climbs

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User	Date		Notes
B_Mark_W	6 Aug	Show βeta βeta: Really enjoyable and variable.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Really enjoyable and variable.
whenry	16 Jun	Show βeta βeta: Polished to death.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Polished to death.
Shaun Wood	8 Apr	Show βeta βeta: Avoid weighting the obvious juggy block at the very top (it\'s the hold you really, really want to use), it\'s loose.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Avoid weighting the obvious juggy block at the very top (it's the hold you really, really want to use), it's loose.
steviechunder	14 Jan, 2024	Show βeta βeta: The top finishing block covered in chalk is loose. Be warned	βeta?
Show beta βeta: The top finishing block covered in chalk is loose. Be warned
Kiddie68	26 Nov, 2021	Show βeta βeta: All bolts in good condition. Echo what previous climber says....lower-offs seem way out left from final holds on block at top of crack. Seemed desperate and unnecessary to "climb' to them using the one tiny super polished foothold. Just clip and swing! Guessing third lower-off bolt is to combine this lower-off with Bodger Bob crack on the left.
Show beta βeta: All bolts in good condition. Echo what previous climber says....lower-offs seem way out left from final holds on block at top of crack. Seemed desperate and unnecessary to "climb' to them using the one tiny super polished foothold. Just clip and swing! Guessing third lower-off bolt is to combine this lower-off with Bodger Bob crack on the left.
Tall Oak	25 Nov, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Lord knows how you finish out way left of the bolts with that shitty polished and tiny ledge. Guessing the third anchor was made for short people and those, like me, who would not commit to that shitty and polished ledge. Who knows?
Show beta βeta: Lord knows how you finish out way left of the bolts with that shitty polished and tiny ledge. Guessing the third anchor was made for short people and those, like me, who would not commit to that shitty and polished ledge. Who knows?
PaulTclimbing	13 Aug, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Improvised set up. Forgot me bits. Made clipping ‘in extremis’ v hard work. Nuts seem ok.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Improvised set up. Forgot me bits. Made clipping ‘in extremis’ v hard work. Nuts seem ok.
Johnlenham	30 Jul, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Had a nut fall on us after one lead/clean of the rope. Climbing partner got a ratchet from the car and I re-lead it with it on my harness. It came from the top middle anchor bolt so put it on, tightened it up and then tightened every bolt on the route for good measure. Should be solid now ????	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Had a nut fall on us after one lead/clean of the rope. Climbing partner got a ratchet from the car and I re-lead it with it on my harness. It came from the top middle anchor bolt so put it on, tightened it up and then tightened every bolt on the route for good measure. Should be solid now ????
Samuele Mattiuzzo	20 Jun, 2020	Show βeta βeta: The final bolt before the chains is loose, tightened it back a bit but won't suffice	βeta?
Show beta βeta: The final bolt before the chains is loose, tightened it back a bit but won't suffice
Samuele Mattiuzzo	20 Jun, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Just the final move gave me issues, can't reach. Finally got it ground up clean!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Just the final move gave me issues, can't reach. Finally got it ground up clean!