Loading Notifications...
286m, 12 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A route that is steeped in history, and the classic of the buttress, but it is frequently the scene of benightments! Start below the right-hand end of Heather Shelf.
1) 20m. Follow the groove to Heather Shelf.
2) 30m. Climb diagonally rightwards rounding two ribs. Just round the second, climb upwards to belay 4m left of a prominent spike, level with a dog-leg in the corner to the right.
3) 15m. Climb up to belay left of a quartz band.
4) 25m. Move right and climb the quartz band. The groove above is tricky and leads to moves rightwards to some ledges. Move onto the right-hand side of the rib to the right and climb it to a spike belay.
5) 33m. A vegetated groove up and right leads to a tall, thin plank-like block.
6) 33m. Scramble up rightwards to reach the Great Terrace - a large grassy shelf - and belay to the right of this below and left of a red wall with 'RW' etched in the base. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Classic Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, UK's best Diffs and V.diffs, Mountain Rock (big mid grade summit routes on rock!), Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe, CUMC Ticklist, North wales road to ruins HVS, 2016 Targets, The Big Easys, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Mountain Rock, Dougs 2020 ToDo List

Feedback

User Date Notes
SuperLee1985 17 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: BEWARE there is an enormous spike on P4 of avalanche that is frighteningly lose (it moves significantly with light fingertip pressure). There is also a lot of lose rock generally on the route to treat every hold with suspicion. The grassy groove on p7 is disgustingly muddy and a frightening and unpleasant experience on lead.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: BEWARE there is an enormous spike on P4 of avalanche that is frighteningly lose (it moves significantly with light fingertip pressure). There is also a lot of lose rock generally on the route to treat every hold with suspicion. The grassy groove on p7 is disgustingly muddy and a frightening and unpleasant experience on lead.
Josh Bratchley 12 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax guide could be clearer, first pitch of longlands, the jammed boulder is clearly visible on the left of the wall. Climb here.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rockfax guide could be clearer, first pitch of longlands, the jammed boulder is clearly visible on the left of the wall. Climb here.
Joshua.Brunning 21 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: 6 pitches very broken ground, great day out in the sun, 4 hour accent!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 6 pitches very broken ground, great day out in the sun, 4 hour accent!

Logged Ascents

505 users have logged this
266 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 79
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 83
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Pinnacle Wall

Grade: S 4a ***
(Craig Yr Ysfa)