One of the first routes climbed on the cliff, and a real mountaineering adventure. Start below and left of Heather Shelf.
1) 20m. Scramble up to the left-hand end of Heather Shelf. Traverse leftwards to the second rib and climb it to belay beneath the big corner.
2) 27m. Climb the corner until it is possible to step left onto the prow. Follow this to a big vegetated ledge.
3) 30m. Climb the broader rib above to another, larger heather-covered ledge.
4) 30m. Climb the wall rightwards to reach the vague chimney on its right-hand side. Ascend this, and follow a quartz band rightwards to a ledge.
5) 23m. Scramble up to belay on the left end of the grassy ledge, beneath the Horns - a prominent clean buttress of rock.
6) 20m. The groove in the centre of the wall leads to another, steeper groove. Climb this until a hard move rightwards leads to the base of the slab below the Horns.
7) 8m. Climb the polished slab. From here 100m of exposed scrambling leads to the summit, it is best to break this into 25m pitches, unless you feel happy enough to move together or solo 400m off the ground. © Rockfax
JMA Thompson, O Eckenstein Sep/1905.
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