UKC

20m.

Rockfax Description
The superb finger- and hand-crack that splits the centre of the wall is an essential Peak tick! The knuckle-cracking start is well protected and leads to easier but excellent climbing above. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Brown 1971.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Top 50 Peak Cracks , The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Rab 'Pocket a Prize' Competition: Randall's Routes, Lesser Known Grit Classics , Proper Cracks UK , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Eastern Grit Crack School - Part 1 , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Peak District Gritstone: Graham Hoey's Best Routes for Moving on to E1 , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , *** HVS on Peak Gritstone

Feedback

User Date Notes
PaulJepson 24 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Noticed what looked like a blue tit very interested in one of the deep cracks low down (after I climbed it). Could be nesting - keep an eye on it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Noticed what looked like a blue tit very interested in one of the deep cracks low down (after I climbed it). Could be nesting - keep an eye on it.
Graeme Hammond 14 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Top out and cracks fully dug out July 23, hopefully this will stop the route getting as much soil washed down it and make it dry quicker as there is less seepage. Unfortunately the base of the route is still very muddy so until the grass regrows (I might have to plant some) a rope tarp is advisable. It is easy to walk off to the right (facing in) following the path closest to the edge to reach the quarry base by the Eastern Moors compound (with the skips) rather than abseiling off the trees which will damage them and will dislodge soil down the route when you pull your ropes spoiling it for others. For best conditions allow for a day or 2 of dry weather and bit of wind to dry the insides of the cracks out fully. Bring a brush and brush off any build up of dirt being washed down and tree matter and it will stay good. ENJOY
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Top out and cracks fully dug out July 23, hopefully this will stop the route getting as much soil washed down it and make it dry quicker as there is less seepage. Unfortunately the base of the route is still very muddy so until the grass regrows (I might have to plant some) a rope tarp is advisable. It is easy to walk off to the right (facing in) following the path closest to the edge to reach the quarry base by the Eastern Moors compound (with the skips) rather than abseiling off the trees which will damage them and will dislodge soil down the route when you pull your ropes spoiling it for others. For best conditions allow for a day or 2 of dry weather and bit of wind to dry the insides of the cracks out fully. Bring a brush and brush off any build up of dirt being washed down and tree matter and it will stay good. ENJOY
Fraser kid 29 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Face was wet and dirty, but brilliant climb never the less.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Face was wet and dirty, but brilliant climb never the less.
Monk 11 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Really dirty when I did it but still very good. Also the top holds look a little fragile.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Really dirty when I did it but still very good. Also the top holds look a little fragile.
The Pylon King 11 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Great 5b start then sustained 5a with good gear and rests and not really pumpy.must be one of the best crack routes in the peak?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great 5b start then sustained 5a with good gear and rests and not really pumpy.must be one of the best crack routes in the peak?
TobyA 20 Nov, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: There is the left hand variation as well that goes at 5a as opposed to 5b. I wonder how many others like me have fluffed the original start, though "hmm - I'll just pop up the easier start..." then had the battle of their lives as they hadn't stopped to rest enough after pumping out on the 5b start! Very well protected and fantastic climbing. The top few moves are typical quarry (easy but dirty and loose) so put some good gear in as it would be easy to slip off there.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There is the left hand variation as well that goes at 5a as opposed to 5b. I wonder how many others like me have fluffed the original start, though "hmm - I'll just pop up the easier start..." then had the battle of their lives as they hadn't stopped to rest enough after pumping out on the 5b start! Very well protected and fantastic climbing. The top few moves are typical quarry (easy but dirty and loose) so put some good gear in as it would be easy to slip off there.

Logged Ascents

588 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Yarncliffe

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 167 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 112
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 113
Votes cast 111
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Eliminator

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Stanage Popular)

Loading Notifications...