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The Plantation in the mist
© PeterJuggler, Oct 2010

UK Bouldering Firsts ticklist

contributed by huwbrace Feb/20

A list of the first ascents of non-eliminate problems at each grade. Traverses are in a seperate list below.

Some problems were originally the starts to routes, but the nature of bouldering has evolved over the years and this list represents the progression of climbing standards on what we currently call boulder problems.


5 - Victorian Climb - Simon's Seat - ? - 1895

6A - Flipper - Robin Hood's Stride - ? - 1903 photo (Flipper is the climb on the right, without the cheat stone)

6A - Spider Wall - Ilkley - ? - 1930's? video

6A - Crease Direct - Crookrise - Allen Austin - 1957 (beats Crucifix Arete by a year and The Villain by two)

6A+ - Teaspoon Variation - Almscliff - Arthur Dolphin - 1948

6A+ - Wall of Horrors Direct Start - Almscliff - Joe Brown (onsight) - 1950s? video photo

6B - Janker's Groove Direct - Froggatt - Don Whillans - 1948?

6B+ - ?

6C - Syretts roof - Almscliff - John Syrett - early 1972 (beats Horror Arete by two years) video

6C+ - Tom's Original - Stoney Middleton - Tom Proctor ? - 1960s? (given 7A, but generally regarded as a bit soft.) video

7A - Barleymow - Almscliff - Tony Barley - 1966 video

7A+ - Ron's Crack II - Crookrise - Ron Fawcett - 1974 (beats Red Baron and Desert Island Arete by two years) photo

7B? - Jerry's Arete - Bridestones - Jerry Peel - 1970s? (grade reflects original state - it used to have better footholds) photo

7B - Bald Pate Superdirect - Ilkley - Andy Brown - 1980

7B+ - Lay-By Arete - Slipstones - Paul Ingham - 1983 (beats West Side Story by two years) video

7C - Cental Wall Direct - Dib Scar - Rob Gawthorpe - 1982 (the start to a route, not generally considered a boulder problem, though it is probably possible as such.)

7C - Sole Power - Froggatt - Jerry Moffatt - 1983 video photo

7C+ - Haston Problem - The Breck - Stevie Haston - 1979

7C+ - Monoblock - Pex Hill - Joe Healy - early 80s photo photo photo

8A - Careless Torque - Stanage - Ron Fawcett - 1987 video

8A+ - Superman - Crag X - Jerry Moffatt - 1988 (a tight line. holds have altered.) video

8B - Isla de Encanta - Trowbarrow - John Gaskins - 1999 video

8B+ - Kaizen - Woodwell - John Gaskins - 2001 photo

8C - Walk Away ss - Fairysteps - John Gaskins - 2002 photo

User Percentage Latest Log
1 Si Witcher 15% 6 Sep, 2009

Map of routes in this ticklist

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Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
Victorian Climb HVS 5a * 4 ? Simon’s Seat
Flipper Arête f6A ** 337 ? Robin Hood's Stride
Spider Wall f6A 67 ? Ilkley (Cow and...
Crease Direct f6A+ ** 370 ? Crookrise
Teaspoon Variation f5+ ** 179 ? Almscliff
CD 25 Problem 6 - Wall of Horrors Start f6A+ * 288 ? Almscliff
Janker's Groove VS 4c * 597 10m Froggatt Edge
Syrett's Roof f7A ** 359 8m Almscliff
Tom's Original f7A * 339 ? Stoney Middleton
Barley Mow E4 6b 54 6m Almscliff
Ron's Crack II f7A+ * 89 ? Crookrise
Jerry's Arete f7B+ *** 36 ? Bridestones (West...
Bald Pate Superdirect E6 6c * 2 12m Ilkley (Cow and...
Lay-By Arete f7B+ *** 84 ? Slipstones
Central Wall (Aid Route) A2 ** 5 20m Dib Scar
Sole Power f7C *** 54 ? Froggatt Edge
Haston Dyno V10 ** - 9m The Breck
Monoblock f8A *** 5 8m Pex Hill Quarry
Careless Torque f8A *** 16 ? Stanage Plantation
10 e, 33 stars 2,885 73m 19
Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
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