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Jake avoiding jamming at all costs
© PaulJepson, 05 Sep 2021

Siegfried Herford’s First Ascents ticklist

contributed by cheque Oct/20

The pre-eminent rock climber of the Edwardian era, most famous for the first ascent of Central Buttress on Scafell, S.W.Herford left quite an impressive legacy of first ascents given that he only lived to 24. Here’s the most complete list I’ve been able to put together- he definitely also did a “double girdle” of Lliwedd with George Mallory and was probably responsible for some of the “traditional” routes on Castle Naze and Windgather, if not other peak crags.

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Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
 PEAK
Herford's Girdle TraverseVS 4b **3290mCastle Naze
Great ChimneyS 4a ***107618mHen Cloud
Herford's RouteHVS 5a ***7018mKinder Southern...
The Mermaid's RidgeVS 4c ***7330m• 2Kinder Downfall
Right Twin ChimneyHVS 5a **130m• 2Kinder Downfall
Left Twin ChimneyVS 4c **430m• 2Kinder Downfall
Original RouteHS 4a 4018mDovedale
 WALES
The Arête ClimbD *5252m• 2Craig Aderyn (Teyrn...
AlphaVS 4b *9430mGlyder Fach
Zig-ZagHS 4b **399?Clogwyn y Tarw (The...
Square ChimneyS -32mGlyder Fach
Slab ClimbD **475?Clogwyn y Tarw (The...
BetaM 4027mGlyder Fach
Herford's CrackHVS 5a ***320?Clogwyn y Tarw (The...
 LAKES
Kern Knotts West ButtressVS 4b ***11333m• 2Kern Knotts
Hopkinson's GullyVS 4b ***72?Scafell Crag
The Obverse RouteVS 4b ***5224m• 2The Napes
Wayfarer's CrackMS 212mGreat End
Direct from Lord's Rake to Hopkinson's CairnS 4a ***28?Scafell Crag
The Girdle TraverseMVS 5a **1?Scafell Crag
Central ButtressE1 5b ***517122m• 6Scafell Crag
Long Climb DirectHS 4b *3230mBrassington...
1 e, 42 stars3,493596m• 33
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