Suggested Bolting Guidelines In North Wales

© Laurence

Climbers down in North Wales are that efficient that every month they send out a BMC Cymru newsletter as a pdf file to subscribers and what interesting reading it makes. It is full of the latest access news, bolting stuff, latest BMC news, covers local training and guiding issues, even announcements about the opening of a new tapas bar in Llanberis; lots of local stuff of interest to the local climbing community.... and further afield.

Organised chaps are Keith Robertson and Mike Raine, and the rest of the NW BMC crew who put it all together.

One section caught our eye, especially as there was a long and circular discussion at the about North Wales bolting work that ran for some time. Read it here at This is what the newsletter says,

"North Wales Bolt Fund Guidelines: Do we need 'em? Some say we do, some say we don't. So far everyone involved seems to have done a sound job. If we are to have guidelines what would they look like, here's your starter for 10.

  • Re-bolt like for like on all classic routes
  • No re bolting on classic trad lines
  • Add bolts where first ascentionist skimped due to finance or lack of effort, with their consent.
  • Replace rotten old pegs and dodgy in situ kit with good bolts
  • Add lower off's
  • Retro bolting of neglected routes on case by case basis
  • New sport routes to be on compact, protectionless rock or scruffy loose worthwhile rock.
  • Bolts can be used from the fund (but not BMC bolts) if activist has done some rebolting subject to scrutiny by his or her peers."

    Another thing this BMC Cymru eNewsletter mentioned was that the North Wales Bolt Fund (NWBF) is currently in debt by over £500 and is in need of financial assistance, please send donations to:

    Lon Brynteg,
    Glyn Garth,
    Menai Bridge,
    LL59 5NU.

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    31 Jul, 2007
    Good stuff, however only three points down their gudelines there is a contradiction. (Nice get out clause if you ask me ;-) "Add bolts where first ascentionist skimped due to finance or lack of effort, with their consent. " How does this work with "Re-bolt like for like on all classic routes" I though the point was that the FA's lack of cash had inadvertently "created" these classic, unique and scary routes which we all enjoy? The Ent ™
    31 Jul, 2007
    I don't think that's correct Enty. Don't forget, there are routes other than on the slate in N. Wales! There are routes, on the slate particularly, which are designer climbs - minimally bolted. Argue the toss between yourselves over whether this was done in a grand spirit of adventure or if it was a case of grade chasing by the first ascentionists. Either way the end result is a series of classic routes in a fairly unique style. As the guidelines make clear, there is no intention to alter the character of these cherished routes. There are also some other routes, which were poorly bolted on conception due to lack of funds etc. In many cases the first ascentionists are in fact the people involved with the rebolting, and they are now hoping to equip these routes as they originally intended. Thats my understanding of it anyway. Personally I think climbing in Wales is in good hands.
    31 Jul, 2007
    Eh? So a manky peg on some classic E1 on cloggy is eligible for a bolt? Surely, I hope, I am mistaken?
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