Climbing At Stanage Restricted

© Gordon Stainforth
If you plan climbing at Stanage next weekend, unfortunately you can't. Stanage is being given a rest from climbing from the 15th September. From that date onward, all weekend climbing is banned. Stanage will be open for climbing weekday mornings from 6am until 11.30am only. Next Spring there will be a full restriction, no access at all, for six weeks from April 8th. Where can we lay the blame here? Who can we point fingers at? Not ourselves surely! Nope, let's pick on the British Mountaineering Council (BMC).

The BMC haven't been doing their job properly, no one went to any Stanage Forum meetings, climbers didn't take responsibility for their impact at this very popular crag, no one volunteered for any access work, no one in the government would support us as they didn't know that climbers had a representative body, apart from that the BMC ran out of money as no one joined.

Imagine if that were true, or climbing was restricted at Shepherd's Crag, or Malham, or Bosigran. There would be an uproar, and rightly so. Letters would be written, articles penned and the forums would be chocker but more than that of course, our climbing choices would be limited.

But it isn't true and Dave Turnbull, CEO of the BMC explains why at his blog (

"Its a simple fact that if it wasn't for the efforts of BMC volunteers and staff over the past 20, 30 or 40 years - access to many crags and mountain areas we currently visit would be severely restricted or banned. Take Stanage for example. Between 2001-5, Access Rep Henry Folkard - supported by several other volunteers and staff, represented the climbers at approximately 50 (fifty) 2-6 hour long meetings of the Stanage Forum and its sub-groups. If it was'nt for Henry's effort and dedication - there is no absolutely no doubt that today Stanage would have more bird nesting restrictions, full Pay & Display parking, further parking restrictions and limitations on footpath approach routes and a host of other problems."

Not all of us have time to volunteer but one way we can all help is to join the BMC, if you haven't already. Not only will you be helping fund all the important work the BMC does, but you will be protecting your freedom to climb.

Never forget, freedom does have a price.

Turnbull continues.....

"If you want a high calibre, credible organisation to be your voice to government, to landowners, to regulatory bodies, conservation agencies and the media, then you should simply regard your annual membership subscription (£8.50 - £28.50 depending on what kind of member you are) as an investment in your climbing. An investment that also happens to give you a high quality quarterly magazine (Summit), piece of mind in your climbing through £5'000'000 worth of insurance cover plus 10% discount of gear at 600+ outdoor retailers nationwide. The BMC means different things to different people; it is an organisation worth joining."

You can join the BMC, right now by clicking here

I'm off to Shining Clough now. Better check the access situation, courtesy of the BMC of course. Here we go, cruise on over to the Regional Access Database,

Everything seems in order but I'd better take note of these approach descriptions: "The best way to approach Shining Clough is from the parking area next to the dam at the SW end of the Woodhead Reservoir. Climbers and walkers gaining access to the moorland by walking under the old bridge ½ mile west on the B6105 have reported difficulties with the landowner who does not permit access."

Thanks BMC.

This post has been read 27,532 times

Return to Latest News

Support UKC

As climbers we strive to make UKClimbing the kind of website we would love to visit, with the most up-to-date news, diverse and interesting articles, comprehensive gear reviews, breathtaking photographs and a vast and useful logbook system. As a result, an incredible community has formed around the site - we’ve provided the framework but it’s you who make the website what it is today. If you appreciate the content we offer then you can help us by becoming an official UKC Supporter. This can be a one-off single annual payment or a more substantial payment paid monthly or yearly which includes full access to Rockfax Digital and discounts on Rockfax print publications.

If you appreciate UKClimbing then please help us by becoming a UKC Supporter.

UKC Supporter

  • Support the website we all know and love
  • Access to a year's subscription to Rockfax Digital.
  • Plus 30% off Rockfax guidebooks
  • Plus Show your support UKC porter badge on your profile and forum posts
UKC/UKH/Rockfax logo

8 Sep, 2007
lol, I actually followed the link. So why don't more people join/join in? J :-)
8 Sep, 2007
If you want your news section to be taken seriously, why do you want to fill it with little fantasy rambles like this?
8 Sep, 2007
I think its a good article, hardly a fantasy ramble. It gets a very valid point across well imho.
8 Sep, 2007
With a completely misleading headline and opening few pars. It is a valid point, but there's no need to use such trickery, is there?
8 Sep, 2007
That had me hung drawn and quartered. So as i have had an invite to the north west area meeting Id better get off my arse and go! Fawksey (BMC member cos I need to be when I get insurance every year for my week of freezing hell in Norway)
More Comments
Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email LinkedIn Pinterest