UKC

VIDEO: Winter Dance....bolt ladder free'd (WI6+ R M8)

Whit Magro and Kristoffer Erickson have free-climbed the classic Montana (USA) ice route Winter Dance, nearly ten years after its first ascent. Winter Dance (WI6+ R M8) is a spectacular line high above the floor of Hyalite Canyon. During the first ascent, a long bolt ladder on the second pitch was used to bypass an overhanging rock band and reach the main ice daggers.

Erickson led the long WI4+ 5.9 (M5) first pitch and the WI5+ final pitch. Magro got the bolt ladder (M8) and the extremely difficult ice of the third pitch, which was given WI7 after the first ascent but has settled to WI6+. Magro took three hours to lead this pitch, and the two finished the climb in the dark, returning to the car 12 hours after leaving.

VIDEO of the ascent HERE.

Read the full report by Dougald MacDonald at Climbing.com.



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