UKC

VIDEO NEWS: Winter Dance....bolt ladder free'd (WI6+ R M8)

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 Michael Ryan 10 Dec 2007
Whit Magro and Kristoffer Erickson have free-climbed the classic Montana (USA) ice route Winter Dance, nearly ten years after its first ascent. Winter Dance (WI6+ R M8) is a spectacular line high above the floor of Hyalite Canyon. During the first ascent, a long bolt ladder on the second pitch was used to bypass an overhanging rock band and reach the main ice daggers.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
Ackbar 11 Dec 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC: I don't know much about all this but "bolt ladders" are totally ridiculous and an insult to climbing so congratulations and fair play!!!
OP Michael Ryan 11 Dec 2007
In reply to Ackbar:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC) I don't know much about all this but "bolt ladders" are totally ridiculous and an insult to climbing so congratulations and fair play!!!

Really? Try climbing many routes on El Cap without them. Malham wouldn't be a world class sport climbing destination without them.

Bolts are as much part of climbing as are nuts.......when used as protection in crackless rock!

I think you will find that these chaps used the bolts for protection not aid as on the original ascent.

 TonyM 12 Dec 2007
In reply:
Video is a good advert for what can be done with a pair of Grivel X-Monsters...
 Lemony 12 Dec 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC: Was that not the point Ackbar was making?
OP Michael Ryan 12 Dec 2007
In reply to Lemony:

I've no idea what point he was trying to make really - but whether you aid or free climb or dry tool or whatever, a bolt ladder is a bolt ladder.

Whit Magro and Kristoffer Erickson have free-climbed Winter Dance, I don't think they took the bolts out of the M8 pitch.

"a long bolt ladder on the second pitch was used to bypass an overhanging rock band and reach the main ice daggers.
"


SI A 12 Dec 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

i hope they havnt chopped them.

i always have thought that chopping bolts was effectively selfish as it only allows people who like to risk killing themselves the opportunity to climb a route.

but thats just me.
Ackbar 12 Dec 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

"Really? Try climbing many routes on El Cap without them."

I'd try, probably fail, except that I wasn't good enough, and come back down.

If they still used the bolt ladder for aid then I'm no longer so impressed.

 TonyM 13 Dec 2007
In reply to SI A:
> i hope they havnt chopped them.

Am sure they won't have done, since I suspect they'll have used them for protection while leading and and working the route.

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