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18-year-old Katy Whittaker Flashes Nosferatu E6

© Hot Aches
The 2007 British Bouldering Champion 18-year-old Katy Whittaker has flashed Nosferatu E6 at Burbage South and also soloed West Side Story, E4 7a or Font 7b+, with the bold finish rather than traversing off.

Dave Brown and Paul Diffley report at the Hot Aches Blog.

"Katy has onsighted E5 and 'headpointed' E6 before. But to 'flash' E6 – (to have information about the moves, but to climb first go without pre-practice), this would be her hardest climb to date. Furthermore, the route involves a dyno at the top, which the British bouldering champion declared is the one type of move that she is 'rubbish at'

Katy was on good form and moved swiftly through the unprotected first half. The dyno move at the top took more consideration. She tried static several times, climbing up and down before launching for the finishing jug. A first female E6 'flash' on grit? Possibly, but hard female ascents are often missed in climbing news. So quite possibly not. Maybe Lisa Rands or Lucy Creamer has managed the same? Regardless, it was a fantastic ascent on a very classic line."

Read the full story with more photographs at the Hot Aches Blog.

UPDATE by Mick Ryan: For the record. "Just talked to Wills Young, Lisa Rands' husband (Lisa was in bed....it's early in California) and after Wills had onsighted Nosferatu, Lisa did indeed go on to flash Nosferatu as Paul down the forums states on 28/09/02. Also a couple of years ago Lisa Rands also climbed West Side Story topping out rather than the traverse off and also flashed Shock Horror at Ilkley, a guidebook E6. Respect to both Katy and Lisa.


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22 Feb, 2008
blimey! Good stuff! I thought her comment about being 'rubbish' at dynos was interesting...
22 Feb, 2008
So has Nosferatu been upgraded or has it been given E6 for the purpose of this article. Still a good achievement none the less. Which move on West Side Story happens to be english 7a?
22 Feb, 2008
E6 in the current Burbage guidebook, although the text does say it's at the bottom of the grade.
22 Feb, 2008
...and the previous one and rockfax. Its the only E6 I've come close to working (after belaying a mate on a clean headpoint).
22 Feb, 2008
As the person who graded it in one guidebook at least, I thought it was E6, and harder as an onsigth than other E5s, eg White Wand, Track of the Cat, Pebble Mill, Great Arete, Curving Arete etc. It seemed like a hard and very committing route, and the landing is appaling. Brilliant effort, well done Katy.
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