UKC

Katy Whittaker - Grit E7

© Hot Aches Productions
Dave Brown of Hot Aches Productions gives us the latest low-down from team Whittaker...

The route hungry Whittakers were back in the Peak after a trip to Spanish limestone and were waiting for good weather to get onto their latest projects.

The last time we filmed Katy Whittaker she succeeded on her hardest trad route ever, flashing E6. Now she had her sights set on climbing her first E7, a Johnny Dawes route called Kaluza Klein at Robin Hood's Stride.

Coincidentally Katy's brother Pete had climbed Kaluza in 2006 when he was just 16. In fact his intention had been to onsight it, but he settled instead for a very quick head-point. Also at the time Pete had spotted an 'unclimbed' line on the arête to the right of Kaluza, and after some research (and cleaning) it seems that the first ascent was indeed up for grabs.

The team had recruited a new belayer for the day. The usual custodian of the ropes was Jill, their mother. Pete explained though that Jill wasn't particularly happy when the belay duties required stage diving off the ledge, in order to take in enough slack to stop the climber hitting the ground. Ryan Pasquill seemed far more at home in performing this particular role.

The ascent was swift. A 'big moment' near the top when Katy didn't get a hold right - she span out rightwards – a moment of decision for the jumping belayer? - then she got it right, reached up, and pulled over the top.

Next up was Pete, who was equally matter of fact the ascent ahead of him. After lots of brushing he headed off and totally cruised Captain Calamity. 'Hard E7' (E7 6c) was the verdict. Another impressive first ascent from the the very keen youth.

Interview and Photo's on the UKC Articles Page

For More Info and Photo's: Hot Aches Blog

Katy is Sponsored by Marmot and Zero-G, 5:10, Hitch n Hike, The Edge, Valley Gym, Lafarge


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I began climbing before I can even remember, it is just one of those things I have always done. Coming from a keen climbing family my brother and I had no choice in the matter! I grew up in the Peak District and the...

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4 Mar, 2008
Typically fine effort from the Whittakers. Looking at the pics on the Hot Aches site and given that "the arête to the right of Kaluza" has already been climbed by Ben Bransby, does Captain Calamity not climb the same arete as Kaluza but on the other side??
4 Mar, 2008
Yes, that's exactly what it does. It starts up Kaluza to the gear the swings round to do as you say Boy.
4 Mar, 2008
Grimer is very tall though.
Well done Pete and Katy! Keep up the good work!
4 Mar, 2008
I thought he noted it was E6 if you are tall but I'm sure he can speak for himself. Well done Katy.
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