UKC

E8 Ground Up at the Buttermilk

© Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com
Bishop, California:

The Buttermilk highball boulder-route Evilution (V12, Font 8A+ or in UK route speak E8) has received its first ground up ascent from Coloradan, Carlo Traversi. Previous ascents of this impressive line made use of a rope to check out and practice the lofty finishing slab.

When does a boulder problem turn in to a route? The line is increasingly blurred especially in the light of rope less ascents of short routes across the globe and recently in the UK, Dan Varian and Ned Feehally's ascents of routes such as Toy Boy E7 7a (or Font 7C+, V10) at Froggatt in the Peak District. (Nov 6: Dan & Ned - Peak District Toy Boys). No ropes, no pre-practice they boulder the routes out; ground-up, above crash-pads.

The Bishop area is well known for its highball boulder problems, so much so that E-grades have been assigned to some of the boulder-routes there to give some comparison to the UK's grit headpoints (Apr 26: E-grades for American Highball Boulder Problems). Like in the UK some of these boulder-routes are practiced on a rope before an ascent. But as climbers get bolder and stronger, and with multiple crash-pads, an improvement in style is being made.

Wills Young gives us the story of Carlo Traversi's ground up ascent at bishopbouldering.blogspot.com


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29 Nov, 2008
Cool, looks well scary. How on earth do you get down? Wouldn't it be a strange querk if we lost our E grades and other countries adopted them?
29 Nov, 2008
Watched a guy working Evilution to the lip when we were there in April - he was taking some pretty big falls from near the top of the steep section and the full Evilution crux is higher still. Doing the whole thing ground-up is very impressive. There's a 5.8 slab and arete on the opposite side of the boulder that you have to downclimb.
30 Nov, 2008
Why giving it E grade!?!? It's clearly a boulder problem and has been established as such !?!? Or is it to wind up some debates again? I bet people would be pretty upset if The visiting americans reported Meshuga as V10 or whatever V grade it would get. Pete
30 Nov, 2008
if you look at Mr Jorgesons blog, you'll see that he's given one of his highballs E8 in the video section, maybe it's simply trying to give comparissons so that more people can understand overseas grades?
30 Nov, 2008
Cool looking route/highball. Is that E8 on the End of the Affair is E6 scale? It looks like a conservative estimate to me. Route or boulder problem?: http://www.ukc2.com/images/dbpage.html?id=1820 The most informative grade is a combination of E for the whole experience and a proper technical grade (V, Font, sport). We're getting there. I'd be interested to hear what V-grades team america would give for Meshuga and the other routes they have done. Less contentiously (?), they are in a great position to compare the relative difficulties of bunch of classic hard routes having done so many in such a short time. How about a graded list?!
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