UKC

Jordan Buys; A New E8 at Earl Crag, Yorkshire

© Naomi Buys
At Earl Crag on Saturday, Jordan Buys from Burnley, made the first headpoint ascent of one of Yorkshire's last great lines.

The route, now named French Duke, and given a tentative grade of E8 7a takes the arete to the right of Mind Bomb. It boils down to a three or four move boulder problem in the sky which Jordan thought warranted a bouldering grade of Font 7c/+ (V9/10) and after a brief play on a rope, I'd agree with that. The gear which is just over half height, would probably protect the crux, just, if it held. The last few easier moves may result in a ground fall.

Jordan had spent a while on the route, refining a good enough sequence to go for the lead and he also struggled with conditions. The wind seemed to be blowing in the opposite direction to normal on Saturday, and this helped. As soon as the first successful top rope had been had, he went for the lead the next go.

And the rest, as they say, is now history.

The route was captured on video by Posing Productions which should have the ascent on their website in the next week. Photographs were also taken.


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2 Nov, 2008
Brilliant. I've seen the line and it's fantastic. Well done Jordan.
2 Nov, 2008
Really really hard. Remember trying it ages ago with Jordan and we both didn't do very well! good effort!
2 Nov, 2008
As not an eliminate as some people have said. So, who's for the wall to the left now then....
3 Nov, 2008
Didnt look very eliminate! Saw the chalk on it as we were driving back home that day and it looked like a truly brilliant line.
3 Nov, 2008
Great effort on a long standing project. Many have tried this line. Nice one Jordan! I always thought it would be E9 7a so there you go - I'm obviously a bit soft! Jack
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