UKC

Infinite Gravity - Re-EquippedLocal News

© Gaz Parry
Gaz Parry has made the third ascent of Infinite Gravity at Blackers Hole, Swanage. This 40m route was first climbed by Pete Oxley in 1992 and has seen only one repeat prior to Gaz's ascent, by Bristol based climber Dave Pickford. The route is graded F8a+, but has epic abseil approaches and until now, was in dire need of re-equipping.

Gaz Parry and Andy Long rebolted the route over two days, and the 100 move pump-fest now sports 20 new stainless bolts.

Gaz described the route:

"Infinite Gravity is without doubt the best route at this grade in the UK and in fact as good as any route of its style in France or Spain. I thought it was better than the Grande Grotte routes on Kalymnos. It's just such an amazing route it deserves some attention. At pumpy 8a+ it's achievable by a lot of UK climbers."

The Climbers' Club Guidebook history section notes the first ascent details:

"Over a two-year period, Pete Oxley's ambitions had been focused on the prow to the right of Laughing Arthur, a full rope-length of rock which overhangs at forty-five degrees. On his sixth day he managed the redpoint; at E8 Infinite Gravity is the hardest route at Swanage."

Check out some photos of the route on Gaz's Blog

Gaz is sponsored by The North Face, DMM and Five-Ten


This post has been read 28,581 times

Return to Latest News


4 Dec, 2008
Good to see those Swanage desperates getting climbed. Has Laughing Arthur had any repeats yet ?
4 Dec, 2008
Brilliant! And a great effort from Gaz P and Longy rebolting it (bloody hard work!?) It's time Blackers Hole and Palace of the Brine saw more attention. (The latter is like a vast Spanish cave; the former is, reputedly, even more impressive!) Pete Oxley left such a legacy of hard routes, particularly roof routes, which he loved. They're crying out for more ascents. Hopefully this is the start of a resurgence of interest. Mick
4 Dec, 2008
Don't think so. They were going to clean it but the sea was too wild. Mick
4 Dec, 2008
I was told Mikey Robertson had done it, but I could be mistaken - not my patch. Jack
4 Dec, 2008
Yep, second that (I mean the post, not the route!). Re-equipping that with staples will have been damn hard work.
More Comments
Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email