Yesterday, Chris Sharma was in Stockholm. Before his "show", lacking a better word, we had a quick chat over a beer. Chris says he's still super psyched about putting up new routes in Spain. He's spent the summer re-modeling his new house in Sant Llorenc De Montgai, and hasn't had that much time to climb lately. Now when that's done, and the temps are cooling down, there are plenty of projects. In a typical understatement, he says "there aren't that many guys who're interested in the 9a+-and-above-lines, so I can pretty much choose all the best lines and bolt them". With unlimited access to rock close to his house, he'll have no problem keeping busy.
So, what about bouldering?
At the moment, he's not that interested in it. The hardest problems today are either super painful because the holds are so small, or really, really condition dependant... it's not fun anymore... it doesn't really interest me to climb 8C+ or whatever. I think it's difficult to get much further, unless the problems simply get longer, but why not climb a route then instead? On a route, you can have 8A sequences stacked on top of eachother... there's no limit there. .
The question now is where the "no-limit" is...
Stay tuned, I think this fall will be interesting.