Bernhard Schwaiger has put up Crazy glue, 8B/+, yet another testpiece in the Saalachtal, Austria. The style is the Schwaiger-special: small edges and side-pulls is very steep terrain, where finger- and core power, as well as excellent foot technique, are prerequisites.
Berni says that he'd done the staning start before, but that the sit had felt impossible. This fall, with shit weather making everything else wet, he was more or less forced to try it if he wanted to climb outside. Said and done, three sessions later he had it in the bag. As usual, the problem is well documented.